groove food

for the love of it

my "go before you die" restaurant recommendation is lucques on melrose avenue in west hollywood. i once had day boat scallops there that altered the course of my life. they came still nestled in their shells, opaque and delicate, perched atop forbidden black rice, coconut curry, and barely cooked pea shoots. not only was it the most beautiful thing i'd ever tasted, something else was unmistakably present. i could taste that each ingredient had been cared for--from boat to farm to restaurant kitchen. love is rare to find in a meal, rarer still in one at a restaurant. you might say i have a bit of a thing for love. in my world there are two kinds: the love that happens to us and the love that we choose. the love that happens to us is alarming and profound. it is staring at my daughters sleeping and realizing, once again, that they are not me nor are they mine. they arrived as gifts in my life, and through them i've learned that my heart is infinitely capable of great things on a moment's notice.

then there is the love that we choose. sometimes the choice is easy. the world calls out to us in different ways: "come love me!" and we run to it, to adore, appreciate, and cultivate. i was built to give a cluster of chioggia beets every ounce of my attention. my best friend is the same way with shoes (stuart weitzmans specifically). whatever it is, each of us has something to which we joyfully surrender.

sometimes choosing love is harder, even awkward and unnatural. how do we love that which we've made a commitment to but don't perceive to bring us pleasure? i am trying to love cleaning my bunny's cage, flossing my teeth, practicing yoga and the regrets i have in my past. it starts with a credo: "i love you little teeth." the more i say it and do it, the more my heart turns itself over to the task. it is the most strange and wonderful phenomena. every circumstance, monotony, and dark corner of my life can transform into an epicenter of peace and pleasure. when we do things for the love of it, they become fun.

everyday granola

 
america is a nation of cereal fanatics. i know of no other culture that adores breakfast cereal to the same extent, many of us content to call it lunch and dinner, also. pastry chef christina tosi of momfuku's milk bar in manhattan even masterminded "cereal milk" soft serve ice cream, a shout out to the intensely flavored milk left behind in your bowl that is better than any prize they could have slipped in the box. there is something very satisfying about making your own breakfast cereal, especially when the taste is incomparably better than anything you could find in the grocery store. meet my mom's everyday granola. it is so quick and simple and can be altered to suit your tastes or whatever you have in the pantry. it's such a good traveler so it makes for a perfect gift best given for no apparent reason. for me, that is this granola's most endearing quality.  the almondy-honey milk left behind in the bowl is not too shabby either.

everyday granola

(makes 12 cups)

6 cups old fashioned rolled oats

2 cups sweetened (or unsweetened), shredded coconut

2 cups slivered almonds

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

3/4 cup canola oil

1/2 cup honey (or maple syrup or agave - or any combination of the three)

1 tablespoon pure almond extract

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 cups dried fruit (cranberries, cherries, figs, apricots, blueberries, raisins) - I like cherries & cranberries

preheat oven to 350. grease a large roasting pan with canola oil or cooking spray.

combine the oats, coconut, almonds, cinnamon, and sea salt in a large bowl. mix gently.

combine the canola oil, honey, and extracts in a medium mixing bowl and whisk until well combined. pour the wet mixture over the dry mixture. stir to coat the dry mixture evenly. i think hands are the best tool for the job.

pour the granola into the roasting pan and bake for 15 minutes. after 15 minutes, remove the pan and stir the granola. you want all the granola to get toasted evenly. continue to remove the pan every five minutes to stir. all in all, the granola should bake for about 40 minutes total.

let the granola cool completely in the roasting pan before stirring in the dried fruit. the granola will keep in an airtight container for 2-3 weeks.

notes

* the granola does not clump up like other granolas, making it even more like cereal. i believe the recipe is an adaptation of one by ina garten.

* try different nuts and any combination of dried fruit.

* serve simply with milk. i also highly suggest serving it over greek yogurt with fresh berries, figs, and an extra drizzle of honey:

 

the mom lottery

i did not get my love of food from my mom. however, her unending love of people is contagious and when you combine the two, it turns you into a cook. today is my mom's birthday. it's the day i shed more gratitude tears than any other day of the year because i know i won the mom lottery. no one in the world cares so selflessly and enthusiastically about my happiness. as a neurotic, perfectionistic high school student i would keep myself up all night, nearly hyperventilating for fear i might not get a good grade in a class. my mom then offered to pay me for any C's on my report card. years later, she spent her birthday driving around connecticut by herself because the day fell during the week of my freshman college orientation and she wanted to be there to move me in.

  

i don't think my mom loves to cook (painting is a different story). the most excited i've seen her get over a food item was a few days ago when she returned from a dental visit to mexico bearing little bags of multi-colored, miniature dragees. for her birthday i made what i believe to be her favorite cupcake--pillsbury "funfetti" with the frosting to match. i may have a soft spot for them, too. how can you not with a name like funfetti? i topped each with a few of her dragees. hopefully she won't mind. my mother does make amazing homemade granola. she produces it in such massive quantities, she gives every friend or stranger that stops by the house a bag to take home. in honor of her birthday, i'm making her granola to send to a few dear, faraway friends. i'll share the recipe tomorrow so you can make some, too.

happy birthday, mom. my only selfish wish is that one day my daughters will love me as much as i love you.

blissed out in wonkaland

i like watching people eat chocolate. they close their eyes and their faces become entirely unguarded. at that moment, i steal a little bit of their pleasure. shhh...don't tell anyone. intent on making the ultimate dark chocolate cookie, i decided to create a mash-up of my go to chocolate chip cookies from the ny times and my favorite chocolate crackles. the result is a cookie with the intensity of the fudgiest brownie, but a lighter, smoother texture. nearly every bite yields a chunk of chocolate, be it milk or semisweet, a couple of which melt into luscious chocolate rivers. for a moment you might close your eyes and drink it in just like augustus gloop, on his way to oblivion.....

oh, don't mind me. i'm just watching you.

chocolate-chocolate chunk cookies

(makes 4-5 dozen, depending on the size of your cookies)

8 ounces semisweet chocolate (64-66%), melted over a double broiler and cooled to room temperature

1 3/4 cups cake flour

1 1/2 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, softened

2 cups firmly packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup dutch-processed, unsweetened cocoa

3 large eggs, at room temperature

8 ounces milk chocolate, chopped into chunks (1/4 inch - 1/2 inch)

8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped into chunks

1/2 cup granulated sugar (organic cane sugar is extra sparkly)

Place oven racks in top and lower third of the oven and preheat to 350. Line two insulated cookie sheets with parchment paper or a silpat baking mat.

Combine the cake flour, bread flour, baking soda and salt in a medium mixing bowl and whisk to combine.

Place the butter, brown sugar, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer (alternatively, use a large mixing bowl and hand mixer). Sift in the cocoa powder. Beat for 5 minutes at medium speed. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating briefly to combine between additions. Add the melted, cooled semisweet chocolate and beat until combined. On low speed, add the dry ingredients in 3 additions, until all the flour has been incorporated. Fold in the chocolate chunks using a spoon.

Shape 1 - 1 1/2 tablespoon balls of dough, gently rolling between your hands. Coat each ball with the granulated sugar by rolling back and forth in a bowl. Place the balls 1 1/2 inches apart on the cookie sheets. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the tops are cracked. Alternate the cookie sheets halfway through. Let cool for a few minutes on the cookie sheets before gently removing to a cookie rack to cool completely.

notes

* these cookies entirely depend on the quality of the chocolate you use. i prefer vahlrona chocolate and cocoa powder here. scharffenberger makes for an even more robust chocolate flavor. callebut and ghiaradelli are good alternatives.

* make sure the melted chocolate has cooled adequately or your chocolate chunks will melt in the warm batter.

* love these with a minimal sprinkle of sea salt on top before baking

* you can make the cookie dough balls ahead of time and keep them in an airtight container in the fridge for a day or two. i bring them to room temperature and re-roll them in sugar before baking.

a recipe in honor of y o u

when someone says "clinton presidency" i don't immediately think of cigars or mismanaged dry-cleaning. i think of miniature marzipan pandas. when chinese president jiang zemin visited for a state dinner, the white house pastry chef made these meticulous, edible little bears to delight the guest of honor. it may have been one of the most memorable moments of 1997 for me. for the first time it struck me that food is a gesture. a meal can communicate respect, sympathy, celebration, lust. the list is long. when i cook i hope the food says, "you are dear to me. my happiness derives from yours." that said, nothing would please me so much as to write a recipe for you. yes, you. leave me a note in any way you choose. it may take some time, but i will honor all of them. tell me somehow what is special to you. send me a memory, a story, a flavor, a wish. 

a summer salad

this salad does not exactly come together in a snap, but i promise you this: it is a pleasure to make and worth every second. consider it an event. spend the morning at the farmers market selecting the plumpest, juiciest summer corn and cherry tomatoes in every size and color. hunt down fresh beans--some farmers are even nice enough to partially shell them for you. bury your face in a bouquet of basil and take a deep belly breath. when you get home, turn on the grill and the stereo at the same time. give each ingredient and step special attention--it will pay off. improvise as much as you want. use different kinds of beans, toast the corn in a cast iron skillet instead of grilling it, or exchange lime for the lemon in the dressing. just make sure you eat it outside, preferably barefoot.

grilled corn, butter bean, cherry tomato & avocado salad

(serves 4 as a starter or side dish)

4-5 ears of corn, husked

1 tablespoon olive oil

kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 - 2 cups butter beans (aka lima beans), removed from pod, but not shelled (if you cannot find fresh beans, use frozen shelled edamame cooked according to the package instructions and cooled to room temp)

2 cups (roughly a pint) of cherry tomatoes, large ones halved, tiny ones kept intact

1 avocado, chopped in 1/2 inch cubes

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn

2 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh mint

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons creme fraiche (or plain yogurt)

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil

grill the corn: prepare a charcoal grill or gas grill for medium-high heat. brush the corn all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. grill a few minutes per side, depending on the size of the ear, until a few of the kernels are blackened. remove from the grill and cool at room temp. slice the kernels off each ear and place them in your salad bowl.

prepare the beans: place the butter beans in a small saucepan and cover them with water. bring the water to a boil--as soon as the water is boiling, cook for 5-7 minutes, until the beans are tender. while the beans cook, prepare an ice bath. as soon as they are done, strain them and immediately place them in an ice bath. slip them out of their shells and let them dry on a towel. add the beans to the salad bowl, along with the cherry tomatoes and avocado. sprinkle the basil and mint on top.

prepare the dressing: combine the zest, lemon juice, creme fraiche, and honey in a medium mixing bowl. whisk to combine. drizzle in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream while whisking, until the dressing has emulsified. season the dressing with salt and pepper. (the dressing may be made a day or two in advance)

when ready to serve, drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss with a spoon until the salad is coated (you may not need all of the dressing).

notes

* no matter how much of this salad you make, it will get devoured

* you can make the salad an hour or two in advance of serving--just wait to add the dressing. try to find a cooler place in the kitchen to store it. you can also refrigerate it for a few hours. be certain to bring it back to room temperature before serving.

i hope this salad makes you happy. 

hunny do list

'when you wake in the morning, pooh,' said piglet at last,
'what's the first thing you say to yourself?'
'what's for breakfast?' said pooh. 'what do you say, piglet?'
'i say, i wonder what's going to happen exciting today?' said piglet.
pooh nodded thoughtfully.
'it's the same thing,' he said. (--a.a. milne)

i have a lot in common with pooh bear. i suspect our interest in food is built in some part on a bottomless affinity for "hunny." i cannot eat honey without feeling like something out there is in love with me. maybe it is a bee, maybe it is something bigger. maybe the bee and the bigger thing are one and the same. i'll take it whenever it is offered, in any language: miel, mella, honig. i would even fly to seattle for a jar of moon valley fireweed honey at pike place market. treacly, floral, smoky, grassy--each jar is suffused with landscape and season. in the world of food, honey is the most seductive storyteller.

ten things to do with honey:

1. infuse a jar of it with rosemary, lavender, sage, bay leaves, hibiscus, or thyme. let it steep a few days before using.

2. move over peanut butter: tahini, banana, and honey sandwiches sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds

3. drizzle a tiny bit over thick slices of heirloom tomatoes. it's like putting a push up bra on a tomato's sweetness. 

4. st. agur blue cheese + honey. if you have not tried this classic combination, i command you to stop reading and find your way to the nearest fromagerie. 

5. use honey in lieu of sugar when making lemonade. i'm pretty sure honeyed lemonade & iced tea is how they serve an arnold palmer in heaven.

6. caramelize roasted vegetables: toss with olive oil, honey, salt & pepper before they hit the oven.

7. chop honeycomb into pieces the size of half your pinkie nail. fold into softened vanilla ice cream. refreeze before serving.

8. smear honey over a halved grapefruit before slipping it under the broiler until bubbling. 

9. preserve clementines in honey

10. dip your spoon in a jar of honey and lift it. watch and wait as most of it luxuriously slides back to the origin. lick the rest off the spoon as slowly as possible. repeat as often as needed. 

seven hour pork shoulder

what do you bring to a vegetarian's birthday party? why, 14 pounds of slow roasted pork shoulder! it takes a truly selfless birthday boy to request a dish that the other 99% of his guests would devour. this is the recipe i turn to for feeding a crowd. it is easy and mostly hands-off. plus, it makes use of my favorite kitchen tool: time. after nearly seven hours in a low heat oven, this inexpensive, tough cut turns into some kind of masterpiece. the exterior is deeply red and just slightly crispy and the interior, well...melts.

seven hour pork shoulder*

(serves eight. i doubled the recipe to serve 30 as carnitas)

* make sure you start this recipe up to two days--but at least one day--before you plan to serve it *

one 7 pound pork shoulder roast (it's also called pork butt)- ask your butcher to tie it

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

2 teaspoons seasoning of your choice (i.e. chopped thyme or rosemary, or toasted, ground coriander and cumin seeds, or crushed chile de arbol)

2 sweet onions, sliced in 1/2 inch thick half moons

1 1/2 cups chicken stock (homemade or low-sodium store bought)

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

optional: baby carrots, peeled garlic cloves, parsnips, fingerling potatoes, or any other vegetable you'd like to roast

one or two days prior to when you plan to roast: mix the salt, pepper, and seasoning of your choice together in a small bowl. place the pork shoulder in a large roasting pan and rub the salt mixture over the entire roast, leaving the fat side up. cover with saran-wrap or foil and find a spot for it in the fridge.

on roasting day: remove the pork from the fridge and let it sit at room temp for one hour, uncovered. set an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 275. roast for 5 hours. remove the pan from the oven and add the sliced onions and chicken stock to the pan. add any additional vegetables you have decided to roast to the pan. increase the oven temp to 300. roast for another 1 1/2 - 2 hours, until the pork shoulder easily yields when you pull at it with tongs. you can also poke it with a fork - it should be quite tender all over. don't be afraid to roast it longer...all shoulders are created differently!

let the pork sit for ten minutes before removing any butcher tie with scissors. remove the pork to a cutting board and the vegetables to a large platter. at this point, you can pull the pork into large or small chunks using tongs, discarding any sinew. smaller chunks are perfect for tacos, larger ones for individual servings.

pour or skim off the fat in the pan, reserving the juices. place the cornstarch in a small bowl and add 2 teaspoons of water, stirring with a fork to create a slurry. place the roasting pan over medium heat on the stovetop and whisk in the cornstarch mixture. continue whisking the juices until it has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.

serve the pork and the roasted onions (and other vegetables) drizzled with the sauce. 

notes:

* i've adapted this recipe from a similar one by Tasha DeSirio.

** there are countless ways to enjoy this pork. i pull it into smaller pieces as my version of carnitas, tossing just a bit of the sauce over the pork for extra flavor. you can also use the shoulder to make a ragu or pulled pork sandwiches.

dreaming in dessert

when i'm in the kitchen, i practice restraint. but when i dream of dishes, i do so in technicolor. i go especially over the top when it comes to dessert. as a kid in the 80's, i designed an extensive collection of womens aerobic wear on one of my dad's yellow legal pads. page after page of side ponytails, legwarmers, and leotards with absurdly puffy princess sleeves and neon lightening bolts. i embraced the concept "more is more" with fervor. today it finds its way out in a red notebook where i sketch flamboyant desserts like "almond joy," a warm chocolate-almond torte with toasted coconut ice cream and almond brittle. "my dad's lemon tree lemon meringue bars," have thick layers of lemon curd on pine nut crust. why stop there? no, these need copious piles of lavender meringue (think absurdly puffy princess sleeves), and drizzles of fruity olive oil and lavender honey. 

(psst...click on the photo to read the mad professor's notebook)

at what point do we start being judgmental and doubtful of our dreams? as a kid i imagined i'd have a house with a jukebox and bellagio fountains in my front yard. now i think a pottery barn sofa and white porcelain sounds more appropriate. i have a pewter paperweight beside me etched with the following message: "what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?" i would start by making s'mores: vahlrona brownies with graham cracker crust, topped with marshmallow ice cream and a bruleed marshmallow. 

fine cooking x 4