when someone says "clinton presidency" i don't immediately think of cigars or mismanaged dry-cleaning. i think of miniature marzipan pandas. when chinese president jiang zemin visited for a state dinner, the white house pastry chef made these meticulous, edible little bears to delight the guest of honor. it may have been one of the most memorable moments of 1997 for me. for the first time it struck me that food is a gesture. a meal can communicate respect, sympathy, celebration, lust. the list is long. when i cook i hope the food says, "you are dear to me. my happiness derives from yours." that said, nothing would please me so much as to write a recipe for you. yes, you. leave me a note in any way you choose. it may take some time, but i will honor all of them. tell me somehow what is special to you. send me a memory, a story, a flavor, a wish.