my interest in ice cream, gelato, and frozen custard has never waned, and when it comes to the frozen dessert family, i've never favored one child over the other--until i met kulfi, a dense, endlessly creamy indian version of ice cream that is typically sold from pushcarts in flavors like pistachio, saffron, and rosewater. making it the traditional way requires patience and arm strength as you essentially create your own sweentened condensed milk by gently reducing creamy milk, stirring constantly to toast it. that is what gives kulfi its irresistible richness and depth of flavor. this cardamom and cashew kulfi achieves a very similar effect through using convenient (albeit kitschy) canned milk. it requires nothing more than whisking a few ingredients together and freezing them in molds or paper cups. the result is a dessert that tastes like silk, or what a rose petal would if it could melt. the prettiness of the milk is matched to a pool of bright strawberry, a feat to watch as it happens on the plate.
cardamom & cashew kulfi with strawberry sauce
(serves 6 - 10, depending on the size of the molds you use)
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 cup roasted, unsalted cashews, finely ground
2 cups strawberries (about 16 ounces), hulled and sliced 1/2 inch thick
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons granulated sugar or honey
2 teaspoons rosewater (optional)
special equipment: stainless steel brioche, tart or baba au rum pans OR small paper cups OR popsicle molds
combine the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, cardamom, and cashews in a medium bowl. gently whisk all the ingredients together.
pour the milk mixture into the molds you have chosen. place them in the freezer and freeze for at least 3 hours, or overnight.
make the sauce: gently stir the strawberries, sugar, lemon juice, and rosewater (if using) in a medium bowl. let sit for 15 - 20 minutes until the strawberries have released some of their juices. puree the strawberries and juices in a blender until completely liquefied. push the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding the seeds left behind. chill the sauce.
when ready to serve, spoon strawberry sauce onto individual serving plates and use the back of the spoon to sweep the sauce into a circle. dip the bottom of a frozen mold in dish of hot water for a few moments (this will help the kulfi release more easily). flip the mold over onto a clean plate, squeezing gently to release the kulfi. use a small spatula to lift each kulfi onto the plates with strawberry sauce. serve immediately.
notes
* kulfi, like ice cream, is a canvas for flavors. try instant espresso, almond, orange blossom, rosewater, saffron threads, or ground pistachio.