being a cook makes you acutely aware of the subtle cues that one season is easing into the next. i've caught hints of fall, but was incredibly relieved when i pulled up to the vegetable shop at chino's farm in rancho santa fe to rows and rows still burstingly bright with tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and corn. i paced back and forth, determining everything i would need to make my final summer "musts," the farm's jack russell following me from lettuces to beans to melons and back again. she had done this before. i drove off with my wallet empty, basil erupting from a plastic bag beside me, and animal collective shimmering from the car stereo. yes, it is still a little bit summer.
10 things to have before fall
1. montauk seafood salad. it's like a chilled version of a clambake with mussels, cockles, shrimp, and scallops. a torn piece of crusty bread is the perfect match for soaking up all the lemony-sea scented olive oil that dresses it.
2. cavallion melon with french feta...dreaminess
3. a root beer float on the patio at the newly opened smashburger in del mar, while dog watching
4. homemade watermelon agua fresca
5. ice cold armenian cucumber, straight from the fridge
6. sliced nectarine for breakfast, anointed with nothing but lime zest
7. chilaquiles under chandeliers strung from the eucalyptus at cafe m at calmigos ranch in mailbu
8. pesto made therapeutically, with a mortar and pestle and a baseball game on the radio
9. white corn pudding with fire roasted poblanos...recipe to follow tomorrow
10. an heirloom tomato eaten in the style of a peach, standing over the kitchen sink