groove food

yesterday, through food

"it is hard to remember that this day will never come again." -jeanette winterson, the passion

it has been a little quiet over here at groove food. the past several days have been devoted to carnivals and costumes. i contemplated telling you i had been perfecting my foie gras cotton candy for your delight. the truth is, i was on a sno kone mission. 900 of them, glistening in all their bubblegum-flavored, day glo glory for an annual halloween carnival at my daughter's school that dazzles. this picture shows one of my little ladybugs making her way to the slushy bottom of what could only be described as a swamp water sno kone. it began as a rainbow of orange delight, sour apple, and watermelon. an eager mouth and five minutes later, it had turned to something brown and wincingly saccharine. in true ladybug fashion, she informed me that the last bite was the best of all. if there ever was a time to consume an eyebrow raising quantity of high fructose corn syrup, let it be in full costume.

sno kones aside, life, like laundry (and dishes!), has piled up. four of my left hand fingers have been split open. is my right side emotional nature attacking my rationality with a vegetable peeler? this capricorn could use a little bit more of that. still, time has come to retreat to the eye of the storm. in my kitchen i find chaos if i come with it. but when i come to revere, to play, to explore what i have to give, i find a well of possibility. and soup. 

i tucked my ladybug into bed last night and kissed her still bubblegum-colored lips, thankful for the day, unique and unprecedented, never to come again. then i did the dishes, to make room to play.

 

shrimp with oranges, black rice & coconut milk

 
weeknight cooking is all about simplicity and speed without sacrificing elegance and flavor. seafood, so long as you purchase it from a trusted purveyor the day you plan to use it, never fails at being fast and delicious. only in the case of shrimp do i employ the freezer. if you can, buy your shrimp frozen. what you see at the market is, for the most part, frozen and dethawed, and you have no way of knowing when that happened. dethaw them in cool water just before you plan to use them--it happens fast. then give yourself 45 minutes, including about 30 minutes of inactive cook time, for this colorful plate to emerge. 

shrimp with oranges, black rice, and coconut milk

serves 4

1 1/2 cups black rice

1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

2 navel oranges, peel cut off & cut into segments (aka supremes)

1 teaspoon honey

20 jumbo shrimp or prawns (U10-12's, about 2 pounds total), peeled and deveined

kosher salt & pepper

4 tablespoons neutral tasting olive oil

1 cup coconut milk

1 teaspoon mild curry powder

2 cups baby spinach leaves

place the rice in a pot (that has a fitted lid) and cover with 2 3/4 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to very low. cover and cook for 30 minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the rice is cooked through. spread the rice out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

pour the orange juice in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. simmer until the orange juice has reduced to 1/4 cup. swirl in the orange segments and the honey. set aside.

pat the prawns dry with a clean dishtowel or paper towels. sprinkle with salt and pepper. heat a large skillet with enough olive oil to evenly coat the bottom of the skillet (1 - 2 tablespoons). when the oil is shimmering and quite hot, add the prawns in a single layer--you may have to work in batches. do not move them for 1 1/2 minutes, until a seared golden crust is formed, and then flip them and continue to cook 1 minute longer, until just cooked through. remove the prawns to a plate. add an additional 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet and then add the rice. cook for one minute, stirring frequently, then add the curry powder and coconut milk. cook an additional minute, then toss in the spinach.

spoon the rice onto individual serving dishes and top with the prawns. spoon the orange sauce over the prawns. serve immediately.

notes

* here is a great video tutorial on cutting citrus segments

* i have a good source for shrimp from mexico. they are incredibly sweet and taste of the ocean. if you can find them, get them. they do not disappoint.

* "forbidden" black rice is available at whole foods market and many other specialty food stores. it can even be purchased at amazon.

 

a little ritual

wishing you a day of pleasure in repetition, a mindset of quiet ceremony, comfort in the weight of a mug, knowledge that metaphor for our actions is wrapping and unwrapping a gift.

wolfgang tillmans. still life. talbot street. 1991.

aya brackett. sitas tea.

wolfgang tillmans. still life. new york city.

aya brackett. breakfast.

fig & honey galette

rustic galettes are a nice thing to have up your sleeve if you struggle with making pastry dough look pretty like i do. rustic essentially means anything goes, handmade is the motto, sloppy-crusts-r-us. somehow, the more misshapen, the better these things seem to taste. my recent round of galette dough became home for two pints of unbearably perfect mission figs. floating atop a pool of honeyed pastry cream, corralled in flaky crust, baked until a melted mass of autumnal sweetness, this is enough to spin your brain out into a hundred forms of desire, starting with a scoop of hazelnut gelato.

fig & honey galette

(serves 8)

for the galette dough

1 3/4 cups (8 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup (6 ounces) chilled, unsalted butter, cut in 1/2-inch cubes

3 tablespoons ice water, or more as needed

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

for the honeyed pastry cream

seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

1/2 cup half & half

1/4 cup dark amber honey

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

for the galette

1 - 2 pints ripe figs, stemmed and quartered

2 tablespoons granulated or demera sugar

to make the galette dough:

combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. whisk to combine, then place the bowl in the freezer for 10 minutes.

add the butter to the flour mixture and toss until each cube is coated with flour. cut the butter into the flour using a pastry blender or, my preferred method, your fingers. you want the ingredients to become coarse and crumbly. the butter pieces should be slightly smaller than a pea.

stir the water and lemon juice together, then drizzle it over the dough, tossing with a fork to moisten the mixture. the dough should be shaggy, but should hold together when squeezed in your hand. if it is not holding together, add additional water by the teaspoon until it holds.

dump the dough onto a lightly flour surface and press it down, folding it over on itself a few times until it holds together. don't handle it too much, or it will get warm and overdeveloped. flatten the dough into a disc that is about 1 inch thick. wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for an hour, or until ready to use.

make the pastry cream:

place the vanilla beans, vanilla pod and half & half in a medium saucepan. cook over medium heat until hot, but not boiling. separately, whisk the yolks, honey, sugar and salt together in a large bowl until the mixture has lightened in color. add the cornstarch and whisk until combined. slowly and carefully pour half of the hot half & half mixture into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly until combined. pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken. strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl then whisk in the butter. discard the vanilla pod. chill in the fridge for 1 - 2 hours.

to assemble the tart:

line a baking sheet with parchment paper. roll the galette dough into a 14 - 15 inch circle (it helps to turn the dough a quarter turn between each roll). transfer the dough to the baking sheet. it will overhang by a little. spread the cooled pastry cream over the dough, leaving a 2-inch border. arrange the fig quarters in a circular pattern over the cream, skin side down, stem end facing the edge of the galette. fold the outer edge over the figs, pleating the dough as you go. put the galette in the fridge for one hour.

position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 375. bake the galette for 50 - 60 minutes. cool for 30 minutes before serving.

notes

* the galette dough can be made and chilled for up to a week in advance

* the baked galette will keep for 2 days at room temperature, covered by a tea towel

* this recipe was adapted from cory schrieber and julie richardson's recipe in their book rustic fruit desserts

ten bites: laina guidero colgan

There are some people who make a meal taste better simply by their presence. For that reason, I like to think of Laina Guidero Colgan as my salt. There is also a flavor association, as many of the meals we've shared together have been breakfasts after early morning surf sessions when we actually got high school credits for waking up and surfing in the morning (not a bad deal, let me tell you). This is when we discovered that anything, from Pipe's Cafe breakfast burritos to steaming cups of coffee, taste a notch better with saltwater on your lips. Since our messy-tressed surf grom days, Laina and I have both become mothers and kitchen denizens. Her son, Dax, may eat better than many of us do on most days. And I will say, Laina looks just as ravishing in an apron as she does in a wetsuit.

Post surf breakfast?

Two places come immediately to mind. The first being The Beach Break Café here in Oceanside. It’s got all the makings of the perfect post-surf gorge-fest, huge portions, freshest ingredients, surfboards and nostalgia wall to wall and even the owner's surf/paddle outriggers. The Vegetarian Omelete with fresh fruit and coffee cake will keep me full an entire day. The second is a much more remote location, my old balcony in college, located in Kawana Waters Queensland, Australia.  Locally caught peel and eat prawns so sweet that any kind of sauce would simply detract. Plus, my balcony was prime location overlooking the break. Prawns, coldies, music, friends and a killer view, what more can anyone ask for?

Flavor?

I’m all about savory. Although I love my sweets I can’t bake to save my life so I naturally gravitate toward Tarragon, Herbs du Provence, Rosemary, Thyme, Nutmeg, good quality Parmesan, Toasted Pignolis. I love the flavor of a simple roast with nothing more that salt and pepper and its own fat.

Dish to perfect?

It seems like I am always working on my Paella. Luckily I’m not a Paella perfectionist so I don’t mind eating my goofs if the rice is too soggy or if my seafood wasn’t the right combo. I’m miffed why Paella’s gotten such a reputation for being a difficult dish. If seasoned right, it tastes really good to me even at its worst.

Baby food you wouldn't mind eating?

I make all my sons babyfood so essentially I eat it all! Making babyfood has been a complete joy. I make big batches on the weekend and freeze it into ice cube trays for later in the week. Now that Dax is a little older I’m adapting recipes so that I can make his dinner and ours at the same time. It’s been a really fun and healthful experiment.

Three songs to cook to?

Hard to pin down just three songs so I’m going to throw out my three favorite cooking bands; Robert Randolf and the Family Band for fun upbeat and low-fuss home-cooking. John Butler Trio for the back porch BBQ.  And, Buena Vista Social Club for hanging with friends drinking vino and eating anything from Caprese Salad to Quinoa & Zuchinni stuffed Peppers.

Food Memory?

Hands down my grandmother’s Bouillabaisse. She used to make it every Christmas. My mom can’t and won’t cook so I like to think that cooking skips a generation in our family. She would spend all day making it and I remember sitting eye-level to the bowl, with Crab legs making their escape and crusty bread in hand, deciphering which part I would dive into first. Before Dave and I were married we were entertaining friends and I decided I would make my first Bouillabaisse. All day I toiled only to realize that not everyone is obsessed with “Fish Soup." Needless to say, we ended up ordering pizzas and I ate Bouillabaisse until I was sick.

Cookbook?

I feel like Ina Garten and Julia Childs are my gourmand fairy godmothers. Since I’m the only one who cooked in our house growing up I learned everything I know from TV. Ina’s Barefoot in Paris definitely helped me solidify my cooking style.  It’s 100% the food I love, simple, country style French food. I’ve made every recipe since it was published and loved them all. As of right now I’m all over Cooking for Baby by Lisa Barnes. Dax loves the recipes and I like that I can make big batches and adapt half for adult consumption.

Wedding food?

I like when the Bride and Groom take their menu as an opportunity to showcase their individual styles. Dave and I got married in Fiji so we had ahi sashimi , steamed Wahoo in banana leaves with mixed vegis and a deadly-yet-fruity rum punch. All of which was chased down with waaaayyyy too much Kava. Dave thought he was the Crocodile Hunter by the time we made it back to bed that night. Locally, Ki’s in Cardiff does catering and they have an insane Apricot Baked Brie Dip that’s served in a giant bread bowl. I’ve hired them several times and although they’re predominantly vegetarian they really are crowd pleasers.

Favorite item in your kitchen?

Company. I love cooking while having someone to chat with. My friend Carley gave me a highchair that hooks to my counter so now it’s all about sautéing and babytalking. Other than that I love my knives. I’m a huge Global fan, the lighter weight and dual edges had me at hello. Plus I always feel confident holding the dimpled handles even with wet hands. I’m saving up for their Sushi Knife next.

Local treat?

One of my fav little treats is a Creole Watermelon Martini at 333 near the Oceanside Pier. All their specialty martinis are delish but, that Sweet/Spicy/Tangy martini keeps me coming back for more. Followed with a half dozen oysters and I’m in bliss-land. Plus they’ve got an insane Happy Hour for those of us who are broke and in bed by 8 anyway.

Notes

* The Beach Break Cafe is located at 1902 S Coast Highway in Oceanside, California

* 333 Pacific is located at 333 N. Pacific Street in Oceanside, California

warm winter vegetable salad

sun on a sunday. a combination that calls for communion with earth. a long walk reveals gift after gift sprung up from the soil. the sculpted succulents of southern california stand motionless, loving the light, in full expression of their durable truth. returning to the kitchen to assemble a warm salad, my thoughts turn to what beauty lies beneath us. root vegetables--those sweet, hearty jewels--are the centerpiece of this richly colored and textured salad.  as the days get half eaten by darkness, share this with friends, and be reminded of the hidden blessings worth digging for.

warm winter vegetable salad

(serves 4)

1 sweet potato, peeled and choped into wedges 1 1/2 - 2 inches in length

2 medium-sized carrots, peeled and chopped into 1 1/2 - 2 inch wedges

2 parsnips, peeled, cut into quarters vertically, tough core removed, and chopped into 1 1/2 - 2 inch wedges

1 celery root (also called celeraic), peeled and chopped into 1 1/2 inch wedges

2 beets, peeled and chopped into quarters or eighths, depending on their size

3 tablespoons + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

kosher salt & pepper

1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon dijon or whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

1 cup flat leaf parsely leaves

preheat oven to 425 with racks placed in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. spread the sweet potato, carrots, parsnips, celery root, and beets on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to fit all of them. drizzle the 3 tablespoons of olive oil over the vegetables and sprinkle with salt and pepper. use your hands to toss them all together so they get an even coat of olive oil. roast for 30 minutes on the upper oven rack. during the last five minutes, place the walnuts on another baking sheet and pop them in the oven.

while the vegetables roast, prepare the dressing. combine the balsamic, mustard, and lemon juice in a small mixing bowl. drizzle in the 2 tablespoons of olive oil while whisking.

as soon as the vegetables and walnuts are done, remove them from the oven and scrape them into a large mixing bowl with the parsely. pour the dressing over and toss to coat. place a serving on individual plates and top each with a crumble of feta. season with a little salt and pepper. serve immediately.

notes

* this salad was slightly adapted from sophie dahl's in her book, miss dahl's volutuous delights

* i garnished each plate with a little parsely-hazelnut pesto, a very simple condiment that keeps well in the fridge for a few weeks. place 1 cup of roasted hazelnuts (skins removed as best as possible) and 2 cups of flat leaf parsely leaves in a food processor. season with a little salt and pepper. pulse several times until the leaves and nuts are broken down and resemble a coarse meal. with the processor running, drizzle in 3/4 cup (or more, depending on your desired consistency) extra virgin olive oil. i keep it in a squeeze bottle to drizzle over salads, sandwiches, eggs, and toast.

* you may subsitute squash for any of the root vegetables. it would also be delicious.

miss dahl's voluptuous delights

first, a bit of blog business. what follows could be traditionally categorized as a cookbook review. i have shied away from providing reviews up to this point because many seem so bossy and biased. that's no fun. even worse, a review can detail how awful something is without being constructive. i very much think a successful restaurant or cookbook review should point you toward fresh, bright food. period. so if i review something, it will be in that spirit. unless i get food poisoning somewhere. that i will tell you about. onward: something voluptuously delightful.

sophie dahl's new cookbook, miss dahl's voluptuous delights: recipes for every season, mood, and appetite, is lovely. you may recognize her famous last name (roald dahl is sophie's grandfather), or her face from previous stints as a model. i will warn you--there is a lot of her face in this book. i am not a huge fan of gratuitous shots of an author throughout a cookbook a la giada de laurentis (okay, you're totally smoking hot, i get it. show me the food). once i got past that, there was a lot to love within the pages.

take, for instance, her recipe for a warm winter vegetable salad. i will post it tomorrow as a bit of a sneak preview, and hopefully you will see what i am talking about better than i can explain. like many of her recipes, this one is quite simple to execute, rustic and beautiful on the plate, and boldly flavored. it is rare that a cookbook can accomplish being both whimsical and practical, but miss dahl pulls it off. recipes for buttermilk chicken with smashed sweet potatoes and pan-fried orange halibut with watercress puree both have less than eight ingredients and even fewer steps. plus, there is a real sense of playfulness. i cannot wait to get to the bottom of eaton mess with rhubarb--indeed, a very voluptuous pile of meringue spooned over with pretty pink rhubarb compote and rose water. there is also her recipe for hangover eggs, for when nothing but a fry-up will do. she advises that "a can of coke completes the bacchanalia, as does some bad television and a lie-down." such things make me actually welcome her graceful gaze over grilled artichokes that follows on the next page.

the real clincher is this--miss dahl is a good read. this is essential. how often do we actually cook the things in a cookbook? be honest. i, for one, buy cookbooks for the pleasure of reading them in addition to the fact that i will cook from them. that is why all of my cookbooks are in my bedroom and not my kitchen. they provide sustenance for dreams. and when i wake, a solid recipe for lemon & ricotta spelt pancakes is not bad to have, either.

notes

* miss dahl's voluptuous delights can be purchased here

goat cheese & leek tart with bacon & arugula

i promised you tarts and i will provide. better late than never. i thought ahead and wrote the recipe out before assembling these, so now the only thing left is consumption. just...make this. i also highly recommend allowing yourself a spoonful of leeks, bacon and goat cheese to savor while you prepare your tarts. cook's reward. and you get the corner piece--the one with the extra large crumble of oven-kissed goat cheese. enjoy.

goat cheese & leek tart with bacon & arugula

(serves 4 - 6 as a starter)

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, dethawed overnight in the fridge

2 cups thinly sliced leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed and patted dry

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup shredded provolone or gruyere cheese

5 ounces fresh goat cheese, in large crumbles

3 slices applewood smoked bacon, chopped into 1/4 inch dice, cooked and drained on a paper towel

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

3 ounces baby arugula (about 1 packed cup)

kosher salt & pepper

cut the sheet of puff pastry in half and place each half on a parhment lined baking sheet. fold each edge over by about 1/2 an inch to create a crust.

heat the three tablsepoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. add the leeks and a finger twist of salt and stir to coat all the leeks in the oil. cook, continuing to stir from time to time, until the leeks shrink in size and begin to turn golden, about 15 - 20 minutes. adjust the heat if necessary so the leeks do not burn. as soon as they are meltingly soft, remove from heat to a bowl. cool to room temperature.

preheat oven to 400. sprinkle the shredded provolone or gruyere over the puff pastry evenly. follow by dolloping teaspoonfuls of leeks over the cheese, following with the bacon, goat cheese, and thyme. bake for 20 - 25 minutes, until puffed and golden brown all over. immediately sprinkle the arugula over the tarts when they come out of the oven. cut into squares and serve immediately.

notes

* leftover tart is delicious warmed in a toaster oven

* i always make it a point to make extra caramelized leeks. they are delicious on salads and in sandwiches and eggs

a tart just prior to hitting the oven

in the land of puff

a friend phoned while she was out running errands. her final stop was to be my house for an afternoon of cooking:

"anything else you need?" she asked.

"hmmm....a box of puff pastry."

(puff pastry, the material out of which croissants are spun, quiches are caressed, and turnovers are goldenly enveloped. it is an absolute pain in the ass to make, but one seductive sheet from the supermarket freezer can make you appear as hybrid of martha stewart and bettie page)

twenty minutes later my friend arrived at my doorstep, arms sinking beneath the weight of an unwieldy, 15.4 pound box of commercial puff pastry. twenty extra-large, bone-white sheets batted their bone-white eyelashes inside innocently. 15.4 pounds of puff pastry have been known to cause hallucinations. i cleared most of a freezer and found it a home then resigned myself to eating puff pastry for the next fiscal quarter. i would emerge from my lair rotund and rubicund, covered in a dandruff of buttery flakes.

as my mind slipped to visualizing all of my skinny jeans tucked away in a  cardboard box, the maker of my demise rescued me.

"why don't we have a puff pastry party?"

10 things to do with puff pastry

1. cut a sheet into 3 inch squares. spoon your favorite jam and a crumble of hazelnuts in the center. fold the corners over to create a triangle, sealing the edges with the tines of a fork before baking and cutting a small slit at the top as an air vent. voila - jam turnovers.

2. roll the edges of a sheet over by about 1/2 an inch to create a crust. you now have a tart shell with which to wildly experiment. i like the following combinations:

3. ricotta, oven-roasted tomatoes, provolone & basil

4. caramelized leeks, bacon, goat cheese & arugula (recipe to follow tomorrow)

5. heirloom tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, thyme

6. roasted butternut squash, gruyere, crushed coriander seeds

7. shaved summer squash, tahini, pine nuts

8. bake a sheet with the edges folded over as described above until golden brown. cool to room temperature then fill with whipped cream flavored with key lime zest and juice. top with slivers of fresh mango.

9. homemade cheese sticks: cut a sheet into 1 inch wide strips. sprinkle with parmesan cheese, salt & pepper. hold each end and twist into a curlicue and bake.

10. warm yesterday's soup and place it in a ramekin. cover the top with a square of puff pastry. bake until bubbly.

notes

* most agree dufour makes the ultimate puff pastry (hint: all butter). if you can find it, use it. if not, pepperidge farm is a decent substitute so long as you don't look at the ingredient list.

did you think i could resist posting a picture of bettie page on my blog? what kind of lauren mitchell wilkinson would i be?

 

ten bites: joe daly

When all eight burners on my range are flaring ecstatic, when three out of four recipes call for huge hits of habanero or harissa, when the evening entails breaking an All-Clad (it can be done), when all of the above absolutely must be accompanied by rocking out, I turn to Joe Daly.  Here is a man who has filled my stereo with Volbeat and Quarashi, Black Rebel Motorcycle Club and Clutch. I like to think of him as the secret ingredient for homemade Sriracha (aka Rooster) sauce. After all the blood and fire and fangs, I was surprised to learn that Joe is a long time vegetarian and practices yoga (but in true form, you're most likely to find him in Extreme Yoga--a class I believe you might be able to poach an egg in). I've never met anyone who loved his dogs more, or lavished such praise on my triple chocolate chip cookies. Is there any kind of better friend than that? I recommend reading his highly entertaining work on The Nervous Breakdown while eating a tofu chili dog. Warning: it will be spicier.

Local breakfast?

Here in North County, a great breakfast spot is as unique as the word "bro."  As a vegetarian, I can always find something tasty, but not always unique.  And so my favorite is the Naked Cafe, in Solana Beach.  The menu is more eclectic than anywhere else, combining classic breakfast platters with fresh and spicy twists that would unnerve a military sniper.  My girlfriend and I try to order at least one new dish between us (we're running out), and have yet to be let down.  My go to platter is the Calexxxican- egg whites scrambled, topped with soyrizo and tortilla chips, served with black beans, avocado, and feta cheese in a big bowl.  I also go with a Naked Cafe Shake (espresso, vanilla ice cream, chocolate chips), and proceed directly to Torrey Pines for a much-needed post-brunch hike. 

Strangest restaurant experience?

I went to Firefly Grill here in Encinitas last summer.  Again, as a vegetarian, perhaps a place with "Grill" featured so prominently would indicate some incompatibility issues.  Nonetheless, in ten years, I have never been shut down in a restaurant.  My friend and I were seated, and I noticed that the only veggie entree was a mushroom thingie, which is not my bag, baby.  And so when the waitress came by to see if we had any questions, I asked if they could throw a plate of pasta and vegetables together for me.  She looked at me as if I were dipped in sewage, and replied, "I don't think so.  We don't have anything like that."  I pointed out that there were several pasta options on the menu, just served with meat.  I also drew her attention to the children's menu, which featured spaghetti.  She retorted by drawing my attention to the fact that I was not a child, and walked away.  With no other recourse, we got up and left.  As we passed the host on the way out, who had just seated us about five minutes earlier, he looked at me curiously, so I said, "I guess you guys can't help vegetarians."  He replied, "Oh," and looked away.

Food Memory?

My mother used to make beef bourguignon when we were growing up.  It was horrible.  Fatty beef soaked in some repellent cream sauce, cheap booze, and served with limp noodles.  Because of this dish, I have never, ever, EVER taken pizza night for granted, to this very day.

Sandwich?

My new favorite sandwich may not technically be a sandwich- I'm not sure.  But it's the tofu chili hot dog at the Lotus Cafe in Encinitas.  The chili is flavorful, the bun is fresh and grainy, and the dog is as close as you get with a fake hot dog.  For bonus points, get one of their cakes, pies, or cupcakes, which are all creamy, sweet, and decadent.

Cookbook?

The PDQ Vegetarian Cookbook.  This book has given me loads of great recipes and ideas.  It's got over 200 recipes for really quick and tasty vegetarian meals, including about a hundred vegan ones.  My favorite is the calzone, which are super simple- you take a refrigerated pizza crust and spread it out on a greased tray.  Ladle on your spaghetti sauce of choice, plus shredded mozzarella.  I add chopped up vegetarian chicken patties and/or veggie sausage.  Cook for 12-15 minutes at 375 degrees,  Flip it over and cook for about 12 more minutes, cutting slits in the top.  Super tasty, super easy, super flavorful, and everyone thinks you are an amazing specimen of modern man.  At least that's what I picture my dogs thinking as I share it with them.

Ballpark food?

Ranch flavored sunflower seeds, M&Ms, and a massive diet soda.

Thing you never want to eat again?

Sushi.  I was out one night in Chicago with San Francisco Giants third base coach Tim Flannery, and we had a few jars in us.  He was telling me about eating uni, straight from the ocean.  He said it gave him a rush.  I said "Not only do I not eat sushi, I don't even eat fish."  Twenty minutes later we were sitting at a sushi bar, and he ordered me an uni roll with a raw quail egg on top.  Now, I didn't realize it then (I had never had sushi before), but what he ordered me was like the PhD of sushi.  It took me twenty minutes and two bottles of sake to get it down while he ate his, ordered more, drank his sake, and loudly suggested to the rest of the restaurant that perhaps my gender was not what it appeared to be.  I will never eat that again.  Ever.  You hear me, Flan?

Cake or pie?

Cake.  Cake.  Cake.

Guilty pleasure?

Self-serve frozen yogurt from Swirls.  I always mix two flavors and then load up on the toppings.  The key is to put the toppings in your empty cup first, then add the fro yo, then add more toppings.  Favorite fro yo flavors are cake batter, malted chocolate, and basically anything sweet.  The kids who work at Swirls are super nice and never make me feel guilty about the piggish delight in my eye when I put my fro yo on the scale and it makes a thud.

Song about food?

"Hospital Food," by David Gray.  A gorgeous song that has been one of my favorite songs ever since the album was first released.  The bridge of the song really does it for me- heartbreaking and beautiful, it still slays me every time I hear it. 

Notes

* Joe is wearing a t-shirt from Chicago Diner, an all vegetarian, mostly vegan eatery in his former hometown. It is located at 3411 N. Halstead in Chicago, Illinois

* Naked Cafe is located at 106 S. Sierra in Solana Beach, California

* Lotus Cafe & Juice Bar is located at 765 South Coast Highway 101 in Encinitas, California

* Swirls has two locations. The original at 2683 Via de la Valle, Suite E in Del Mar, California and their newest location at 204 N El Camino Real in Encinitas, California