france has long had a reputation for being the nation of the finest sauciers. its terroir, it seems, is not only ideal for producing venerable wines, but breeding grounds for sauce-makers as intuitive and exacting as glass blowers. i hate to throw a branch in the world's steadily moving culinary cogs, but i think mexico is overlooked in terms of greatness. its salsas, of which there are endless regional varieties and innovations, bring meals to life. some even say there are a handful that can cure the lousiest of hangovers. then there is mole, perhaps one of the most beautiful things to come of one of history's ugliest moments--an inspired blending of indigenous and spanish missionary ingredients and methods, a tobacco-hued, cinnamon-scented, chile-riddled gift that is sorrowful, haunting, and delicious. france's sauce bordelaise is refined, but pico de gallo is a celebration. tomorrow i will share two salsas that will hopefully incite you to dance.