this dish represents a brief but important era in my life, one which cemented my decision to turn myself over to all things culinary. it was the summer of 2003, and i had just taken my first restaurant job working the pantry at pacifica del mar, a still bustling seafood place that peaks during horse race season, right as i arrived. i had absolutely no idea what i was doing, much to the joy of the other line cooks who ceaselessly tormented me but assuaged my wounded pride with brothy bowls of mussels and clams. the only one who took consistent pity on me was a dishwasher named fernando who they alternatively called super mario or saddam hussien based on his resemblance to each. before the night got hectic, we'd clean salmon together for the restaurant's signature dish, a gorgeously blackened filet coated in warm spices. it is still one of my favorite dishes, perfect for pulling out on a weeknight, when the salmon at the market is wild and fresh.
sugar spiced salmon
(serves 4)
1/4 cup cane sugar
1/4 cup chili powder (i use new mexican)
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
1 teaspoon dried, ground mustard
2 teaspoons ground pepper
1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 salmon filets (about 6 ounces each, skin & pinbones removed)
3 tablespoons neutral tasting olive oil
in a large, shallow bowl, mix together the sugar, chili powder, paprika, cumin, cocoa powder, ground mustard, pepper, and salt.
roll each salmon filet in the sugar spice mixture, coating evenly.
preheat a griddle or grill pan over medium-high heat. add the oil and, once shimmering, add the salmon filets (cook in batches if your pan is too small). cook for 2-3 minutes per side, until just cooked through. serve immediately.
notes
* double the spice recipe and you'll have some for another night. store at room temperature in an airtight container
* this rub would work well for many robustly flavored fish
* i pieced together this recipe from memory and what i was able to find on the internet. it was adapted for the home kitchen. pacifica serves it with mashed potatoes and chinese green beans in a black bean sauce. i love it served simply over blanched green beans.