would you trust these two women to make you dinner? some might say there are more substantial questions to consider. like this one:
the physics of cooking teaches us to choose our heat transfer agents and cooking methods wisely. i believe equal attention should be given to the selection and maintenance of strawberries.
i mean, really, is there any happier chore than hulling strawberries? especially with your best friend, who happens to go by dot, mutually barefoot in a warm kitchen, as an ambivalent rain shares the sky with quiet stretches of sunlight.
i wish every sunday afternoon could be devoted to making dinner with dot. she might be the only other human i know that geeks out on uncut, craggy stalks of rhubarb before they've been groomed for a crumble. alas, there is a whole lot of highway 1 between del mar and carmel-by-the-sea. albeit beautiful.
the thing is, because i only get to make dinner with dot every, oh, fiscal quarter, it sets the whole day in a desperate sort of slow motion. hours become minutes, but then a few moments can languorously braise an entire pot roast. or roast two chickens.
dot tided over the cooks and chess-players with little puff pastry tarts filled with the last of her local chanterelles, plus plenty of brie, a cheese which only expounds on its gooey, runny, luscious nature by a round in the oven.
earlier in the afternoon, i'd slipped a sheet pan of red grapes in a low oven for 2 1/2 hours of oven-drying. shallots enclosed in a homemade foil envelope nestled in beside them, and everything got a healthy drizzle of olive oil, salt, pepper, and fresh thyme. everything emerged an even richer version of itself.
the oven-dried grapes acted as centerpiece for a salad, the roasted shallots were pulverized with sherry vinegar and olive oil to become its dressing. and a little applewood smoked bacon and ricotta salata never hurt anyone. the recipe follows at the end of this post.
dot roasted two pasture-raised chickens in the style of thomas keller. watching her carve them tableside, spooning everything over with thyme-scented juices, was the theater for the night. you can find thomas keller's simple roast chicken recipe here.
perfect roast chicken is satisfying on its own, eaten straight from the cutting board, without the aid of a fork, knife, or plate. any "oyster" lover would agree. however, dot's crispy-skinned, creamy-centered red potatoes are the ultimate counterpoint for soaking up all those juices. also lovely: fat spears of asparagus, grilled in a cast iron skillet, and doused in garlic and lemon infused olive oil.
in my book, kids who eat salad are pretty much allowed to do whatever they'd like for the rest of the night at the table, including providing the most enlightening expose on the toothfairy. ever.
lastly, dessert. i'd found a recipe for strawberry rhubarb crumble that used spelt flour and toasted pine nuts in the crumble portion of the recipe. dot and i decided the fruit deserved a poetic, haunting pour of st. germain, an elderflower liqueur, before it hit the oven.
if you are like me, you are probably always looking for ever newer ways to consume that magical duo of strawberry and rhubarb. i can only liken the taste to a smell: "my little pony." no matter how many times i played with my beloved set of my little ponies as a kid, they always smelled sweet, like cereal milk and lipgloss. or a cluster of honeysuckle that had baked in the back seat of the car on a spring day.
the strawberries and the rhubarb, tinged with boozy flower fields, and topped with a crunchy rubble of spelt, oats, pine nuts, and butter, just struck the right chord. vanilla ice cream, as it tends to do, made a whole mess of it. all the better.
notes & recipes
* dot has a floral design shop & studio in carmel california: rose hip! it beats disneyland as the happiest place on earth. should you be in the neighborhood, i urge you to visit: rose hip floral design @ the crossroads shopping village, 243 crossroads blvd., carmel, ca 93923. the bouquet above was courtesy of dot & rose hip. sleeping next to it actually made me dream about flowers.
* for more information on st-germain, visit here.
the recipes from the night...
arugula and mache salad with oven-dried grapes, bacon, ricotta salata and roasted shallot dressing
(serves 6)
4 ounces baby arugula
4 ounces mache
1 lb. seedless red grapes
4 small shallots, peeled
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1/2 lb. applewood smoked bacon, 1/4 inch diced, and pan-fried until crispy
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil + 2 tablespoons
sea salt and cracked black pepper
4-6 ounces ricotta salata
preheat oven to 250. stem half of the red grapes, leave the remaining grapes in clusters. place the grapes on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of thyme leaves. place the shallots on a sheet of aluminum foil and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the remaining thyme leaves. sprinkle the grapes and shallots with sea salt and freshly cracked paper. enclose the shallots in the foil. place the pan in the oven and bake until the shallots are very soft and the grapes shriveled and lightly caramelized. let the grapes cool slightly before removing the unstemmed grapes from their stems. place all of the grapes in a bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
place the shallots and all of the pan juices into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade. add the sherry vinegar and honey and process until smooth. slowly drizzle in the 3/4 cup olive oil and a steady stream with the processor running until the dressing is well combined. remove to a jar or cup and cool to room temperature.
toss the arugula, mache, bacon, and half of the oven-dried grapes in a large salad bowl. add dressing gradually, tossing to coat, until the salad is just lightly dressed (you will have plenty of dressing leftover for another use). divide the salad among individual plates and top each with additional grapes. use a vegetable peeler to shave ricotta salata over each serving. drizzle with a little additional dressing, sea salt and cracked black pepper, if desired. serve immediately.
(this recipe was adapted from bon appetit, november 2006)
strawberry rhubarb crumble with spelt flour & pine nuts
(serves 8 - 10)
1 cup spelt flour
3/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted, and finely chopped
3/4 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup natural cane sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/2 cup melted unsalted butter
1/2 pound strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters
12 ounces trimmed rhubarb, cut into 3/4 inch pieces
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 cup - 3/4 cup sugar (use more sugar for greener, tart rhubarb)
1/4 cup st-germain elderflower liqueur (optional)
set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375. butter a 10 inch round or oval baking dish, or a 9 inch square baking dish.
combine the spelt flour, pine nuts, oats, 1/2 cup can sugar, sea salt, and black pepper in a medium mixing bowl. gently toss the ingredients together with a fork. add the melted butter and use a fork to stir the mixture. using your hands, squeeze the dough into a few patties. freeze the dough for at least twenty minutes.
toss the strawberries and the rhubarb with the cornstarch and 1/2 - 3/4 cup of sugar. wait five minutes, then add the st-germain, if you are using. transfer the filling tho the preparing pan. remove the topping from the freezer and crumble over the filling, making sure to leave a few large chunks.
transfer the dish to the oven (you may want to set it atop a piece of foil to catch any filling drips). bake for 35 - 40 minutes, until the topping is browned and the filling is bubbling. let the crumble rest for 20-30 minutes before serving, preferably with whipped cream or some kind of ice cream.
(this recipe was adapted from heidi swanson of the 101 cookbooks blog)