groove food

christmas morning strata

santa's cookies are gone. they were buttery-crisp shortbread circles with cream cheese frosting and plenty of green and red sprinkles--the kind of cookies that are as fleeting as christmas itself. jimmy's cookies, they are called. jimmy, you are on the naughty list. i could go on about the cookies, but this is about strata.

if you are unfamiliar with strata, let me just describe it as breakfast casserole and hope you trust me enough to read on. someone in my family clipped it from the pages of bon appetit in december 1997 and it has been our treasure ever since. it is my go-to recipe for any special morning when i want to channel all of my attention to the people i am with and noticing what they are doing.

you make the strata the night before and it does magical things in the refrigerator overnight (did santa bless it? i will never know). when you are ready, you pop it in the oven for an hour while guests and neighbors are tortured by the scent of bubbling cheese, eggs, cream, herbs, smoked ham, artichoke hearts, and garlic, all strewn over milk-soaked sourdough bread. if you've set the table the night before, all that's left to do is call everyone to it.

some fresh fruit on the side is a nice counterpart to the strata's richness. of course, a steaming cup of coffee or a mimosa also does the trick. a little late, but i wish you a merry christmas with a recipe in time for the first morning of 2012.

christmas morning strata

serves 8-10

2 cups whole milk

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

8 cups 1-inch cubed sourdough bread (crusts trimmed before cubing)

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

5 extra large eggs

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 1/2 teaspoons dried herbes de Provence

12 ounces soft fresh goat cheese (i use laura chenel), crumbled (about 3 cups)

12 ounces smoked ham, chopped into 1/4-inch cubes

3 6 1/2-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained and halved lengthwise

1 cup (packed) grated fontina cheese

1 1/2 cups (packed) grated Parmesan

butter a 13 x 9 x 2-inch glass baking dish or large ceramic baking dish. whisk milk and oil in large bowl. stir in bread and toss gently to coat. let stand until liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

whisk cream, eggs, garlic, salt, pepper and nutmeg in a large measuring cup or bowl. mix herbs in separate small bowl to combine

place half of bread mixture in the prepared dish. top with half of the goat cheese, ham, artichoke hearts, herbs, and cheeses. pour half of cream mixture over everything. repeat layering with remaining bread, goat cheese, ham, artichoke hearts, herbs, cheeses, and cream mixture. cover and refrigerate overnight.

when ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°. bake uncovered until firm in center and golden-brown and bubbly, about 1 hour. let stand for 5 - 10 minutes before serving to your hungry crowd.

notes

* i use smoked black forest ham and ask the deli to slice the pieces into 1/2-inch thick ham steaks. this makes for easier "cubing."

* in a pinch, i've used canned, non-marinated artichoke hearts. still amazing.

* adapted from bon appetit, december 1997

* if you are looking for a great, make-ahead dish on the sweet side, may i recommend this terrific creme brulee french toast?

shrooms with a view

if you want mushrooms that look like this:

find them in a place that looks like this:

lay them to rest somewhere peaceful:

but not until they've been loved by a midas touch master:

beautiful things belong together where it's warm. in other words, cook them:

and keep them in good company:

the recipe that follows is from my dearest friend dot, aka lauren/lolo orman, who whipped up this impeccable brunch like she was pulling on a worn-in pair of jeans. i am fairly certain charlie parker had her carmel, california home in mind as the ultimate venue for listening to "my old flame." you're likely to turn up moonstones there, or pups named pickle, or find a chorus of tulips bowing into the afternoon. even the chanterelle mushrooms of big sur and environs request to spend their final days there, becoming the richest shade of brown their surface can tolerate. oh dear. i am talking in fable again. dot-style saturday brunches can have this effect. her simple recipe follows, almost entirely unaltered. i only wish i could give it to you in her handwriting--the toothfairy has dot on retainer for writing her notes. 

crustless quiche with chanterelle mushrooms and herb salad

For 2

2 eggs
1/4 cup cream, half & half, milk or other milk-like substance 
2 tbsp grated grana padano, pecorino or other tasty cheese of that family
1 tbsp finely chopped herb of your choice (I like flat leaf parsley or chives here)
Salt and fresh cracked pepper

Oven at 325.

Whisk eggs with other ingredients until light and fluffy.  Divide between two buttered ramekins and bake until the eggs have risen like a soufflé and just cooked through, 25 to 30 minutes.

Eat with dressed baby greens or:

Chanterelle Mushrooms with Herb Salad

For 2

4 large chanterelles, cut into even bits
1 clove of garlic, minced
Olive oil
Salt
Pepper (fresh cracked, lots)
Lemon
5 large basil leaves
Generous wad of flat leaf parsley and chives
CHEESE! Something soft and creamy like a Brie, or if you're an over achiever, brillat savarin or saint Andre. 

Sauté chanterelle mushrooms in a large pan with olive oil. When the mushrooms are nearly done (toasty gold and smelling like heaven) add an extra pour of olive oil and the garlic, stirring until cooked through and well incorporated. Salt and pepper to taste.

Gather herbs together and chiffonade. Toss in a bowl with a big squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper. 

Place small wedges of cheese on each plate.  Divide mushrooms between plates, placing them on or next to the cheese.  Top with the mixed herbs and drizzle with olive oil. 

crazy in the coconut (part 2)

nothing says the weekend quite like the smell of butter as it hits the griddle and becomes home for a slice of challah soaked in eggs and milk. french toast evokes childhood memories for many. it's hard to beat the classic--until you try it with coconut milk. it lends a subtle flavor and smooth custard once you break the delicate crust formed by the griddle. a pool of passion fruit syrup sends this french toast into the realm of decadence, but fresh fruit or a sprinkle of cane sugar will also do the trick.

coconut french toast with passion fruit syrup

(serves 4 - 6)

1 1/2 cups passion fruit juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 loaf challah bread, sliced 3/4 - 1 inch thick

1 cup canned, unsweetened coconut milk

3 eggs

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup (or slightly more) unsalted butter for griddling

1/4 shredded coconut, toasted in a small skillet

prepare the passion fruit syrup: place the passion fruit juice in a small saucepan and set over medium heat. bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to keep the juice at a steady simmer. reduce until the juice has concentrated down to 3/4 cup. swirl in the sugar and 1/4 cup of butter, one tablespoon at a time. set aside in a warm place.

prepare the french toast: whisk the eggs, coconut milk, and salt together in a shallow bowl.

heat a griddle or flat grill pan (or nonstick skillet in a pinch) over medium-high heat. add one tablespoon of butter for every two pieces of toast your griddle will accommodate.

dip a slice of bread in the egg-coconut milk mixture, and flip it over to coat the other side. lift the bread from the mixture, gently squeezing to draw the liquid into the center of the bread slice. place on griddle and cook (for approximately 90 seconds - 2 minutes per side), until golden brown. repeat with additional slices of bread. serve immediately with the passion fruit syrup and toasted coconut spooned over the top

notes

* i use ceres brand passion fruit juice. it can be found at most well-stocked supermarkets. the syrup is equally delicious made with mango or papaya juice. classic maple syrup is also a completely acceptable accompaniment

* if you want a really pronounced coconut flavor, try adding a tiny bit of pure coconut extract to the milk and eggs

* try pure coconut cream instead of coconut milk if you are feeling a little too skinny (or if you simply feel like life is meant to be enjoyed to the max)

improv chilaquiles

my first summer as a teenager my father drove my brothers and me many, many hours down the baja peninsula. we finally set up camp in a remote spot called punta baja. i spent most of the days buried in anne of green gables or paddling out in the pacific, laying supine on my surfboard once i made it past the waves, staring into infinite, empty sky. when my dad took us off-roading by a neighboring fishing village, one of the wheels of our isuzu trooper caved in upon hitting a jagged rock. we were stranded, miles from a telephone, in desolate, dusty heat. a couple of fishermen jogged over to examine the mess. they returned with parts from an abandoned washing machine and somehow managed to fix our car enough for us to make it back to san diego. i've since had an unceasing admiration for this aspect of mexican culture--the inspired use made of everything. this ingenuity is especially present in mexican cuisine, where all parts of an animal are used and no food item is put to waste. 

which brings me to chilaquiles. in my opinion, there is no better breakfast to be had on the planet. they are essentially fashioned from leftovers--tortillas, salsa, and abandoned vegetables, tied together with creamy eggs and perhaps a handful of cheese. the corn tortillas get a quick fry in a little oil, then are slipped in warm, spicy sauce, until they are half tender, half crisp, and absolutely delicious. there is no wrong way to make chilaquiles, so i offer here a rough recipe with lots of choices. the one essential, i feel, is a squeeze of lime juice at the end. what day is not made better by the taste of limes upon waking? i can say from experience, not many.

improv chilaquiles

(serves 4)

essentials

6 corn tortillas, cut in quarters

1/2 cup vegetable oil

4 eggs, lightly whisked

2 limes

pre-prepared sauce (choose 2 cups from the following OR create your own sauce with the recipe that follows)

salsa roja

salsa verde

pico de gallo

OR

create your own sauce (choose 3 cups from the following, selecting at least one type of tomatoes)

white, red, or yellow onion, medium diced

fresh tomatoes or tomatillos, coarsely chopped

canned, diced tomatoes

fresh or jarred roasted bell pepper, medium diced

roasted poblano, medium diced

jalapeno, finely diced

flavor builders (select 1 - 4 from the following)

1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon hot sauce (depending on heat)

2 teaspoons adobo from canned chipotles

1 teaspoon dried mexican oregano

1 cup shredded cheese (i.e. monterey jack, cotiga, cheddar etc.)

toppings (optional)

1 cup avocado, large diced, or guacamole

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

salt & freshly ground pepper

fry the tortillas: place the vegetable oil in a saute pan with high sides and set over medium heat. you want the oil extremely hot (about 350 degrees), but not smoking. slice off a small piece of tortilla and slip it in the oil. it should bubble up and begin to turn golden brown. fry the tortilla wedges, three or four at a time, in the oil, until they are golden brown and crisp. remove to a plate lined with paper towels. let the oil cool down for a bit and then pour out all but one tablespoon, reserving the extra oil for another use.

prepare the sauce: if you are using a leftover sauce such as salsa roja or pico de gallo, pour the sauce in the pan, returning the heat to medium. simmer the sauce until hot throughout. move onto to preparing the eggs.

if you are making your own sauce, return the pan to medium heat. if you are using any onions, add them to the pan and cook for a few minutes. next, add any tomatoes or other vegetables you are using and cook for several minutes, until the tomatoes break down and liquid is released. season with salt and pepper.

prepare the eggs: heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the butter. when it sizzles, add the eggs, and slowly stir a couple of times with a spatula to scramble. cook for a minute or two, until the eggs are mostly done.

finish the chilaquiles: add the fried tortillas and eggs to the warm sauce and fold everything together gently with a spatula. stir in any flavor boosters and squeeze juice from halved limes over the chilaquiles. divide amongst serving plates and add any toppings. serve immediately.

notes

* you can add leftover pulled pork, chicken or steak to your chilaquiles if you wish. they are also good with leftover corn, grilled vegetables...whatever you have on hand.

* if you don't feel like frying corn tortillas, you can always use leftover corn chips. leftover is the key word here.

* instead of scrambling the eggs, you can serve the chilaquiles with a fried or poached egg for variety. i've also had chilaquiles made with a hint of ginger. another plate was topped with asagio cheese. both were delicious. 

everyday granola

 
america is a nation of cereal fanatics. i know of no other culture that adores breakfast cereal to the same extent, many of us content to call it lunch and dinner, also. pastry chef christina tosi of momfuku's milk bar in manhattan even masterminded "cereal milk" soft serve ice cream, a shout out to the intensely flavored milk left behind in your bowl that is better than any prize they could have slipped in the box. there is something very satisfying about making your own breakfast cereal, especially when the taste is incomparably better than anything you could find in the grocery store. meet my mom's everyday granola. it is so quick and simple and can be altered to suit your tastes or whatever you have in the pantry. it's such a good traveler so it makes for a perfect gift best given for no apparent reason. for me, that is this granola's most endearing quality.  the almondy-honey milk left behind in the bowl is not too shabby either.

everyday granola

(makes 12 cups)

6 cups old fashioned rolled oats

2 cups sweetened (or unsweetened), shredded coconut

2 cups slivered almonds

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

3/4 cup canola oil

1/2 cup honey (or maple syrup or agave - or any combination of the three)

1 tablespoon pure almond extract

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 cups dried fruit (cranberries, cherries, figs, apricots, blueberries, raisins) - I like cherries & cranberries

preheat oven to 350. grease a large roasting pan with canola oil or cooking spray.

combine the oats, coconut, almonds, cinnamon, and sea salt in a large bowl. mix gently.

combine the canola oil, honey, and extracts in a medium mixing bowl and whisk until well combined. pour the wet mixture over the dry mixture. stir to coat the dry mixture evenly. i think hands are the best tool for the job.

pour the granola into the roasting pan and bake for 15 minutes. after 15 minutes, remove the pan and stir the granola. you want all the granola to get toasted evenly. continue to remove the pan every five minutes to stir. all in all, the granola should bake for about 40 minutes total.

let the granola cool completely in the roasting pan before stirring in the dried fruit. the granola will keep in an airtight container for 2-3 weeks.

notes

* the granola does not clump up like other granolas, making it even more like cereal. i believe the recipe is an adaptation of one by ina garten.

* try different nuts and any combination of dried fruit.

* serve simply with milk. i also highly suggest serving it over greek yogurt with fresh berries, figs, and an extra drizzle of honey: