groove food

sunshine cakes

shortly after i promised you a plant-based recipe a week last week (POW!) this week arrived. weeks are like gangbusters. there is nowhere to hide. as it turns out, this is a very good thing for you. just for you, i am sitting in bed, dinner propped on a stack of cookbooks, typing a recipe i'm calling "sunshine cakes" because who wouldn't want to make something with sunshine in the title? and you should make these cakes because they are so delightful and so easy, among other becoming qualities, all of which should be preceded by the word so.

the sun in sunshine cakes comes from sunflower seeds, ground almost to a powder in a food processor. then in goes cooked millet (or quinoa or rice if you prefer) and a host of other ingredients to give your cakes flavor and texture. this is where you can draw on the creativity of your inner cook. i like mine with caramelized onions, grated carrots, and plenty of fresh herbs. i've also made them with chopped sundried tomatoes and golden raisins. i can vividly imagine them with diced, sauteed mushrooms. can somebody please do that and report back? this recipe makes about 12 protein & fiber-packed cakes (or you can shape them larger and have sunshine burgers). they keep well, so i make them at the beginning of the week and mightily praise my forsight when hunger hits and there is a quick, tasty, filling snack at my disposal. the best part is the crispy golden crust that's formed when you sear the cakes in your favorite cast iron skillet, so don't skimp on that part.

sunflower seed & millet cakes with spicy tahini sauce

(makes 12 cakes)

1 cup millet, rinsed

2 cups vegetable stock or water

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes

1 bay leaf and/or sprig of thyme (optional)

2 cups raw sunflower seeds

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 cup grated carrot

3/4 cup caramelized onions (see note)

1/2 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

sea salt & pepper

1/4 cup neutral high heat oil, such as canola or safflower, for cooking

cook the millet: preheat oven to 350. place the millet, stock (or water), turmeric, red chile flakes, and bay leaf & thyme (if using) in an oven-safe pot with a fitted lid. bring the stock to a boil, cover the pot, and place in the oven. cook for 20-25 minutes, until the stock is absorbed and the millet is cooked through (it will still have a pebbly texture). fluff with a fork and set aside to cool to room temperature.

make the cakes: place the sunflower seeds, coriander, and garlic powder in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade. process until the sunflower seeds are finely ground--they will have the texture of breadcrumbs. add the millet, caramelized onions, grated carrot, and chopped parsley to the processor, season with salt and pepper, and pulse a few times to combine all the ingredients. do not over process or the mixture will get gummy.

shape the mixture into cakes, using about 1/4 - 1/3 cup of the mixture for each cake. chill the cakes in the refrigerator for an hour (or more) so they set.

when you are ready to cook the cakes, preheat the oven to 400. set out a rimmed baking sheet--lining with parchment paper is optional. heat 1 - 2 tablespoons of the oil  in a cast iron (or non-stick) skillet, over medium heat. use enough oil to generously cover the bottom of your pan. cook the cakes in batches, searing on each side for 1 - 3 minutes, until a golden crust is formed. remove the cakes to the baking sheet. once all of the cakes have been seared, slip the baking sheet in the oven for 7 minutes to cook through. serve immediately with spicy tahini sauce (recipe below), or save for later.

spicy tahini sauce

1/3 cup tahini, preferably raw

1/3 cup water

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice

1 tablespoon chopped jalapeno

1 clove garlic, chopped, or 1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 cup chopped cilantro (optional)

sea salt & pepper

place all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until well combined, about 1 minute.

notes

* this recipe is ripe for experimentation. substitute cooked rice or quinoa for the millet, and feel free to add other things (sundried tomatoes, grated sweet potato, raisins/currants, green onion, herbs, capers, jalapeno are just a few ideas)

* the millet cake pictured in this post is served with avocado, bull's blood micro greens, spicy tahini and a quick saute of chopped green beans and pea tendrils

*the best way to reheat the cakes is in the oven, however i am happy to eat them cold or at room temperature (yes, they are that good)

* to caramelize onions: slice 2 onions into 1/4 inch half moons. heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy, medium-sized saute pan over medium heat. add the onions and stir to coat in the olive oil. cook for a few minutes, stirring so as not to burn the onions, then turn the heat to medium-low. season with a generous pinch of salt and several cracks of black pepper. cook the onions, stirring from time to time, for 45-70 minutes, until they are deeply golden and shrunken down in size. make sure to watch the heat so they do not burn. you can add a splash of water if they are sticking to the pan.

la varenne's lamb in ragout

recipes are peculiar things. some are written, some are murmered, some even die with their maker. there are some we treasure so much we etch them on the cupboard, or know their details by rote, like a poem that plays out on the stove. each one tells a story, some more candidly than others. a recipe can begin to disclose the person who wrote it, and resurrect the place and time they lived, or at least cast a light back. but something happens when you take a recipe into your kitchen, when you roll up your sleeves, brush off the cutting board, and set to the task of making the words a meal. the recipe begins to tell you about you.

francois pierre la varenne, known for creating the founding text of modern french cuisine, wrote his recipe for "lamb in ragout" in the 17th century.  the recipe does not contain measurements, quantities, cuts, temperatures, or details on timing or doneness. in its entirety, it is two sentences, one of which is, "serve." la varenne wrote mostly for a professional audience, so he assumed those encountering it would know what to do with his first direction: roast it.

as a girl in her kitchen in 2012, there were seemingly infinite ways i could attempt la varenne's recipe. i could have chosen any cut of lamb, cubed it, left it whole, simmered it on the stove or in the oven. mushrooms could be wild or cultivated, sliced or left pristine. his recipe relied heavily on the knowledge of the cook, assumed the cook could make certain decisions, or would make certain decisions, and maybe all one really needed was a practical list of ingredients and some basic instructions.

i bring myself (sometimes wittingly, sometimes in imbecilic gesture) to every recipe. i think we all do. when given one as spare as la varenne's reads in the present, i turned to tenets gained through experience: caramelizing increases flavor and slow cooking at low temperatures produces tenderized results. when la varenne called for lamb, onions and mushrooms, i browned them before the braise. i have a penchant for browning ingredients separately, as many of them need different amounts of time to achieve the right shade of dark. it's tedious, but that is who i am in the kitchen. i will work for rewards, even subtle ones. i interpreted "fried flour" to be butter and flour browned together, like a roux. see, caramelizing! and when he directed "everything simmered well together," i slipped my now-brimming le creuset in a low oven for several hours.

i include my adaptation of la varenne's lamb in ragout below because it turned out delicious--earthy and rich, but punctuated by the brightness of citrus and capers. it almost makes me sad to include such specifics and details when the original recipe demanded such creativity and improvisation of me. if not lamb in ragout, i urge you to find a recipe you are uncomfortable with, maybe another that has traveled its way through hundreds of years, still mostly in its original form, ready to engage you and become dinner once more.

lamb in ragout

(serves 4)

2 bone-in lamb leg steaks, about 1 1/4 pound each

coarse salt & pepper

2 yellow onions, coarsely grated

3 cups thinly sliced crimini mushrooms

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups chicken stock

3 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar

4 cloves

2 tablespoons capers

rind peeled from 1 orange

1 bouquet garni (i used 3 stems of parsley, 3 thyme & 1 sprig rosemary all tied together with butcher twine)

set oven rack to the middle of the oven and preheat to 300. season the lamb steaks with coarse salt and pepper. add two tablespoons of the olive oil to an oven safe pot (that has a fitted lid) over medium-high heat. once the olive oil is shimmering, add the lamb steaks to the pot. brown the lamb, about 3 - 5 minutes per side. remove the lamb to a plate and add an additional 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pot, followed by the onions. cook, stirring frequently to dislodge any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the onions are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. adjust the heat if necessary so the onions do not burn. small splashes of water can be added to the pot, as well, if the onions are sticking to the pan. remove the onions from the pan and set aside.

add the final two tablespoons of olive oil to the pot. once hot, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are browned, about 5 - 7 minutes. remove the mushrooms and set aside. add the four tablespoons of butter to the pot. as soon as the butter melts, add the flour, stirring frequently with a whisk. once the butter and flour smell nutty and are caramel-colored, about 3 minutes, add the chicken stock and vinegar. bring to a boil, then adjust the heat down to a simmer. stir in the capers, orange rind, bouquet garni and cooked onions and mushrooms. push the cloves into the lamb so you can easily find them later and add to the pot. place a lid on the pot and place in the oven.

cook the lamb, turning the steaks every 45 minutes, until the lamb is tender and falling off the bone, about 2 -3 hours. skim off any accumulated fat. serve the lamb with the sauce served on top.

notes

* this recipe was adapted from francois pierre la varrene in la varenne's cookery, translated by terence scully. la varenne's recipe had two sentences, mine has 22, not including ingredients.

* i served the lamb with mashed yukon gold potatoes. one steak amply feeds two this way.

 

super verde enchiladas verdes

comfort food does not usually fall in the same sentence with fresh. but doesn't the ultimate comfort food have you pushing away from the table feeling better than when you sat down, nourished and energized, not sleepy and bloated? this theory does not permit throwing a salad down on the table and calling it comfort food. there's got to be a homeyness present in order to qualify. big, brothy bowls of soup bobbing with garden vegetables. or enchiladas filled in any number of ways, but always using fresh corn tortillas that just barely hold their shape after baking, melding into whatever goodness they carry.

enchiladas require a bit of elbow grease. that's why i like to make them on the weekend and serve them to many. call me romantic, but the work they require is an ingredient as important as the tortilla. time spent makes things taste better, and these enchiladas are no exception. that said, they are dead easy to assemble. no tricky stuff.

the key here are the tomatillos. blended with onion, jalapeno, serrano, and cilantro, they make a sauce highly redolent of citrus with subtle heat underneath. i stood over the blender for a full minute inhaling. i even poured a shot of it and tipped it back. i don't regret it.

the assertive freshness of the salsa verde meeting humble, familiar corn tortillas is what make these enchiladas so memorable--and the filling. which, i might warn you, has a color theme and is why i call these super verde enchiladas verdes. aside from the caramelized onions and a bit of jack cheese, everything else that fills and tops these enchiladas is some shade of green. these things just happen to taste so well together. case in point: zucchini, spinach, poblanos, and goat cheese laced with pounded parsley and olive oil (bonus points for using neon green olio nuovo).

insert sound of plates being scraped. buen provecho!

super verde enchiladas verdes

(serves 6 - 8)

for the pounded parsley sauce (optional, but tasty)

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

2 cups parsley leaves

1/4 - 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

for the tomatillo sauce

2 pounds tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed

1 large yellow onion, peeled and cut in quarters

1 - 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded

2 - 3 serrano peppers, seeded

1 cup cilantro leaves, packed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1.5 cups homemade or store-bought vegetable broth

for the enchilada filling

2 onions, medium diced

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling the pan

2 poblano peppers, small diced

3 medium-sized zucchini, small diced

4 cups spinach (or a blend of arugula and spinach), roughly chopped

1 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 cups (from about 8 ounces) grated jack cheese

6 ounces fresh goat cheese, or softened cream cheese for a milder flavor

12 - 14 corn tortillas

to serve

2 avocados, sliced

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

make the pounded parsley sauce: toast the coriander seeds in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. put the seeds in the bowl of a mortar and pestle and crush into a rough powder. add the parsley leaves a handful at a time, pounding into a rough paste. slowly whisk in the olive oil. season with salt & pepper and set aside. (alternatively, you can make the sauce by placing the parsley leaves and ground coriander in a food processor. pulse a few times to break up the leaves, then drizzle in the olive oil with the motor running until you have a rough sauce. set aside)

make the tomatillo sauce: determine how spicy you'd like your tomatillo sauce. this depends on a number of variables: how large are your chili peppers and how spicy are the actual specimens. taste and determine. place the husked tomatillos, onions, serranos, jalapeno, and cilantro in the pitcher of a blender. you may not be able to fit everything, in which case, only add half the tomatillos. season with salt and pepper. blend on low at first, gradually increasing the speed to high, until a smooth sauce is formed. you may have to stir and scrape down the sides of the blender to assist this process. if you had to divide the tomatillos, add the rest now and blend until smooth. taste and adjust seasonings, perhaps adding more jalapeno and/or serrano if you prefer.

place the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. add the tomatillo sauce--stand back, it may spatter a bit. cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes. turn off the heat. add the broth and stir to incorporate. set the tomatillo sauce aside.

make the filling: add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a large skillet set over medium heat. add the onions and stir to coat in the oil. season with salt and pepper. cook the onions, stirring often, until lightly caramelized. this should take about 20-30 minutes. if the pan gets dry and the onions are scorching, add a splash of water and stir, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. you may also need to adjust the heat. add a splash more of olive oil to the pan, then the poblanos. cook 5-6 minutes more, until the poblanos have softened. scrape the onions and poblanos into a large bowl and let cool to room temperature.

once the onions and poblanos have cooled, stir in the zucchini, spinach, cilantro, cumin, and jack cheese. in a smaller bowl mash the goat cheese (or cream cheese) with a fork. if using, add half of the parsley sauce and use the fork to combine. set the rest of the parsely sauce aside. if you are not using the parsley oil, crumble the goat cheese (or break the cream cheese into small pieces).

assemble the enchiladas: preheat the oven to 375. oil a 9 x 13 baking dish, or similarly sized casserole. alternately, you can make individual servings oiling square or oval shaped ramekins large enough to hold 1, but preferably 2, enchiladas. warm the tortillas. you can do this by wrapping them in a slightly damp towel and microwaving for 30 - 40 seconds. Or, my method, which is a little more time consuming but creates a perfectly pliable corn tortilla. heat a cast iron or regular skillet over medium heat. once warm, run a tortilla under water. shake off the excess water and then place the tortilla in the skillet. heat the tortilla for 20-30 seconds per side, just until the tortilla is warmed through. fill the tortilla while another one heats, almost like you have a little enchilada assembly line.

to fill: add about 1/3 - 1/2 cup of the filling to one side of each tortilla, then add about a tablespoon of the goat cheese (or cream cheese) mixture to the top. tightly roll, placing the seam side down in the baking dish. repeat this process until all of the filling has been used. you may need one more smaller baking dish to contain any overflow. reserve about a cup of the tomatillo sauce and set it aside. pour the remaining tomatillo sauce all over the enchiladas.

cover the baking dish with foil and place in the preheated oven. bake for 40-50 minutes, removing the foil at about 35 minutes to lightly brown the top. the sauce should be bubbly. wait about 5 minutes before serving, topping each with a little additional tomatillo sauce, sliced avocado, cilantro leaves and a small spoonful of the parsley sauce.

notes

* this recipe can easily be made vegan. omit the jack and goat cheese. in its place, you can add crumbled, firm tofu (made by draining and pressing a block of tofu then crumbling). add the tofu to the onions with the poblanos. another alternative is adding spicy cashew cream (recipe here) when you would add the goat cheese.

* if you want to save a little time, omit the parsley oil. it is lovely, but not entirely necessary.

* i like using ezekiel brand organic sprouted corn tortillas, but almost any will do. most corn tortillas are naturally gluten free, but be sure to check the ingredients as some producers add wheat flour. as for store-bought broth, imagine's organic no chicken broth is a winner in my book.

* don't worry if your enchilada assembling skills are less than finessed. even at their messiest, these are quite delicious.

walnut & quinoa tacos

there are a handful of things in the world that are indisputably awesome no matter in what form they come. i can think of a few. ice cream. paychecks. ukuleles. hugs. tacos. definitely tacos. they have so much going for them. they offer a myriad of flavors. the combinations and permutations are endless. tacos are a canvas where your culinary imagination can madly ramble. and let's not forget one of their most likeable qualities: you eat them with your hands.

sometimes the best method for making tacos is spilling the contents of your fridge and pantry and playing with what you have. but if you'd like a little more structure that offers huge returns in terms of fresh, clean flavor i implore you to make walnut and quinoa tacos. it sounds like an unlikely combination, and the method for making these tacos was certainly new to me, but isn't it the one with the funny nose that we always fall for? serge gainsbourg tacos. the other wonderful thing is they are vegan, although you wouldn't guess it. making the accompanying spicy cashew cream is a must. a must! they satisfy every guest and the filling comes together in no time, leaving you the rest of the day to slave over salsas and other colorful things to add to the spread.

i like these tacos served with little bowls of toppings--radishes, carrots, lime wedges, cilantro, microgreens. i also thinly slice a couple bell peppers and red onions then char them in the wok to serve on top. as for salsas, i am of the mind that guacamole is nearly always a must when tacos are uttered, but i also like a simple mango salsa and a grilled tomato salsa for good measure and color. which brings me to posting a picture of the chioggia and golden beet salad with tangerines, cilantro and mint that joined the tacos on the table. when it comes to this meal, you should feel a bit like eating the rainbow. sans leprechaun.

walnut & quinoa tacos

(fills 12 - 14 tacos)

1 cup quinoa (i use a tri-color blend), rinsed

1 cinnamon stick

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 - 1 teaspoon hot sauce, depending on how hot you like it

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 1/2 cups raw walnuts, soaked in water for 4-6 hours

2 limes, juiced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons chili powder

salt & pepper

warm corn tortillas

spicy cashew cream (recipe follows)

preheat the oven to 350. place the quinoa in an oven-safe pot that has a fitted lid (a small to medium sized dutch oven is a good option for this). add the cinnamon stick, turmeric, hot sauce, and red pepper flakes to the pot. cover the quinoa with 1 3/4 cups water and season with salt and pepper. bring to a boil over medium-high heat. once boiling, cover the quinoa with the lid and place in the oven. bake for 20-25 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is fluffy. fluff with a fork.

while the quinoa is in the oven, drain the walnuts from the water they were soaking in and place them in the bowl of a food processor. add the lime juice, cumin, coriander, chili powder, and salt & pepper to taste. begin pulsing the food processor until the walnuts are broken down into very small pebbles, the texture of taco "meat."

fold the walnut mixture into the cooked quinoa and season with more salt and pepper if needed. serve the taco filling on warm corn tortillas, with the accompanying spicy cashew cream.

spicy cashew cream

1 1/2 cups raw cashews, soaked overnight

1/2 teaspoon chipotle chili powder

2 lemons, juiced

2 tablespoons nutritional yeast (optional, but very delicious)

drain the cashews from the water and place them in the pitcher of a blender (or food processor if you don't have a blender). add the chipotle chili powder, lemon juice, nutritional yeast, and season with salt. add 1/2 cup of water to the blender. blend on low speed, gradually increasing the speed as the cashews break down. you may need to add more water as you go, and stop the blender to stir and scrape down the sides. you want the cream to be the consistency of sour cream, so adjust the water as necessary. blend until the consistency is smooth & velvety. serve at room temperature.

notes

* this recipe was adapted from leslie meyers

* make sure to start the night before, as the cashews need to soak overnight

* the quinoa and walnut filling is also delicious over a salad, or scooped with a spoon straight from the fridge.

an evening with temple grandin

arriving at archi's acres organic farm in valley center, california is a heart-opening event before you even inhale your first spicy breeze of live basil. after winding up miles of road, lush with avocado groves, the farm announces you've arrived with a tunnel cypress that holds your little car like a hug.

hugs were on of my mind when i pulled up on a sunny-cold december afternoon, hatchback erupting with sacks of winter squash from sage mountain farm and gluten free chocolate cakes neatly wrapped in foil. karen archipley, co-owner of archi's acres and veteran's sustainable agriculture training with her husband, colin archipley, greeted me with a hug at her doorstep. with the help of farm students and neighbors, the archipley's living room was transformed into a sprawling dining area for a farm-to-table dinner with temple grandin as the guest of honor.

i will not soon forget the textures of that evening--karen's gingery, garlicky salad, made from a bin of just-picked kale and swiss chard, each leaf delicate, though sturdy and verdant. or temple grandin entering the kitchen, full of power and humility, white neckerchief and pins shining against her vest. the way candlelight got fuller as night came on and voices louder and warmer. i'll remember the resistance to the spoon just at the top of a pear and apple crumble, giving way to soft fruit.

each component of the meal drew from local farms and ranches, including homegrown meats' standout grass fed flank steak, soaked in a dark coffee marinade and paired with forager mike's raw superfood hot sauce. i'll include my recipe in this post--the coffee holds up so well to the assertive flavors of quality grass fed meat. and now mike's killer hot sauce, Dang!!!, can be found at whole foods or ordered online.

when a community of forward-thinking farmers and ranchers comes together to eat, there is hope at the table. plus, it's hard not to have hope when in temple grandin's presence. she's proven the point that when we strive to be and humane and give dignity, we also achieve maximum efficiency and resourcefulness. her life teaches us that our perceived obstacles are actually doorways when we proceed with courage.

it is easier to have courage when someone like temple models it for you. it is easier, too, when you step foot on the grounds of archi's acres, knowing that there lives are being changed all the while mouths are being fed.

i remain convinced that when we put our hearts into the matter of how we feed ourselves, we cannot help but courageously turn toward the most compassionate path. as if we needed any more convincing--sound found is also the most delicious.

notes, acknowledgements & a recipe

* learn about and support archi's acres and their revolutionary veteran's sustainable agriculture training on the web here

* a special thanks to archi's acres, homegrown meats, sage mountain farm, stan smith grass fed beef, raquel pena, and dang!!! hot sauce for their contributions to this dinner and to all the students, farmers, neighbors and friends who helped out. also, with deepest thanks to karen and colin archipley for welcoming me onto their farm and into their home and yvonne espinosa for making all of this (and so much more) possible.

* finally, temple grandin, for your steadfastness, for generously taking the time to speak to all of us about the future of raising livestock, for never failing to inspire and encourage, thank you.

coffee-marinated grass fed flank steak

(serves 4 - 6)

2 pounds grass fed flank steak or flat iron steak

1 ½ cups strongly brewed coffee, chilled

2/3 cup soy sauce, tamari or coconut aminos

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

6 cloves garlic, smashed

3 medium shallots, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon sea salt

cracked black pepper

in a medium sized mixing bowl, combine the chilled coffee, soy sauce (or tamari or coconut aminos), olive oil, smashed garlic cloves, shallots, red pepper flakes, coriander, sea salt, and several grinds of black pepper.

place steak in a gallon sized ziploc bag or shallow dish large enough to fit the steak and pour the marinade over the steaks. refrigerate for 4 – 6 hours, or up to 24 hours.

when ready to grill, preheat grill to medium-high heat. grill steaks 12 – 15 minutes total, flipping once. allow the steaks to rest for at least 5 minutes and then slice ½ inch slices against the grain. serve with dang!!! hot sauce or a homemade chimichurri.

easy homemade curry paste

i think this can win you over in ten minutes or less. it involves all the most fragrant herbs, plenty of garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and shallots. there's jalapeno for a slight singe and turmeric for gorgeous color. and peanuts--those are good, too. these are the elements of a thai-inspired homemade curry paste that will make you cringe every time you see an impostor jar of curry paste in the grocery store. this is the real deal. swirled into warm coconut milk, its lingering flavors overtake you in layers. like the smoothest of come ons, you don't even realize what is happening until you've already fallen.

its merits are many. it makes the boldest flavor base for stir frys and one pot dinners (i'm including my weeknight chicken, sweet potato and coconut curry below). it will quickly become all you will need (or want) to marinate with for the grill. a teaspoon or two in salad dressing is transformational. or try swirling it in whole milk yogurt as the ultimate dunk for the rogue mango or cucumber in the refrigerator drawer. the best part is this: pulling the ingredients together takes less than ten minutes and it freezes beautifully. so make it now, use it tonight, and use it later. repeat as often as needed.

yellow curry paste

2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

6 garlic cloves, crushed

4 shallots, sliced

1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer husk removed, sliced

2 jalapenos, seeds removed, sliced

1 cup cilantro leaves and stems

1/2 cup mint leaves

3/4 cup basil (bonus points for using thai basil)

1 tablespoon ground turmeric

1 cup roasted, salted peanuts

1/4 cup sesame oil

1/4 cup canola or safflower oil

place all of the curry paste ingredients in the food processor and process until smooth. the curry paste will keep in the refrigerator for 3 days in an airtight container, or frozen for up to 2 months. it is helpful to freeze the amount you typically need for a recipe (1/4 cup or so) in individual ziploc bags.

weeknight chicken, sweet potato & coconut milk curry

(serves 2 - 4, depending on appetite!)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, diced

1 sweet potato, peeled and 1/2 inch diced

kosher salt & pepper

1/4 cup homemade curry paste

1 14-ounce can coconut milk

1 cup chicken stock

1 zucchini, halved and sliced 1/2 inch thick

1 pound cooked chicken, shredded or diced

1 lime, juiced

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

steamed white or brown rice, for serving (optional)

place the olive oil in a medium-large pot over medium heat. when the oil is shimmering, add the onion and saute until translucent, 5 -6  minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to keep the onion from burning. add the sweet potatoes and saute a minute more. add the curry paste and cook until incredibly fragrant, 2 - 3 minutes, stirring to coat the vegetables.

add the coconut milk and chicken stock and bring to a boil. reduce the heat to a simmer, add the zucchini and cook until the potatoes are just tender, 10 - 12 minutes. add the chicken and cook 2-3 minutes more. stir in the lime juice, soy sauce, and rice wine vinegar. serve immediately, with rice, if using.

notes

* streaming the new feist album, metals, makes for a great curry paste assembling soundtrack. find it here. with thanks to JAD.

dinner with dot, the third

when i wake up i have two things on my mind: coffee and dinner. the first i address urgently with joyful anticipation. in fact, i go to bed smiling knowing i will be drinking coffee when i rise. and as for dinner, i'm nearly always in a state of daydream concerning it. when the day begins, i ask what is required to make dinner magic happen. this question is most fun to consider in the company of my best friend, dot, and her best friend, pickle.

the best dinner missions are daring and ridiculous quests. we drove through the hills of monterey like we were on the autobahn! we popped wheelies in a prius but kept our brussels sprouts intact! we had transcendental moments with rainbow chard at the pacific grove farmers market! we sampled cheeses tagged as "funky" by in-the-know cheesemongers! we sponsored a dairy cow in a remote village in spain like it was a cabbage patch kid!

we bought a boatload of fava beans! i've been making dinner with dot a lot lately, you may have noticed. this fantastic fact is no small feat considering we live a seven hour drive from each other (and that's if you don't take the pretty route). so when we get down to the dinner part, things get serious. seriously ecstatic.

dot saluted spring in salad. the fava beans joined tender raw asparagus, watercress, parmesan shards, radish wheels, and meyer lemon dressing, inspiring everyone gathered around the table to say things like "hallelujah!" the verdant tangle was piled atop toast and a melting sliver of culatello, a.k.a. the prize of parma, a.k.a. prosciutto with an even smoother voice and beaucoup bucks in the bank.

the porcine theme expanded with dot's rosemary & honey glazed pork chops, a simple dish with limitless variations and a super idea for weeknight eating. dot seared organic pork chops until they achieved a golden crust, then turned the heat down a bit until they just cooked through (145 degrees internally with a 5 minute rest before serving). the pan was deglazed with a splash of stock, a fat sprig of rosemary, and a tablespoon or so of honey. so easy, no recipe required.

if you try dot's method, i encourage you to serve your chops alongside sliced pear, roasted brussel sprouts, a baked yam mashed with vanilla bean and butter, and spoon the pan sauce over everything. some nights incite a double hallelujah.

but, wait. there was still PEANUT BUTTER PIE (i am a lowercase kind of woman but those words deserve CAPS when listed together like that). from the pages of melissa clark's new book, in the kitchen with a good appetite (yes, i'm totally obsessed) comes a recipe for "karen's peanut butter pie," a chocolate cookie pie crust filled with the easiest ever peanut butter mousse and topped with chocolate chips and honey roasted nuts (and some whipped cream, if you fancy) you can find recipe here.

dot and i watched the meal go down at the dining room table from a perch on her sofa, pretty much marveling over how lucky we were to to be sharing things like pork chops and peanut butter pie in the same city. we meant to squeeze a cheese course between the entree and the pie, but it was late and her fiance's boys had school the next day. dot sent me a snapshot of the cheese a few days later, when i'd returned to san diego. with it came hints of dinner with dot, part four. hallelujah.

notes from dot:

the salad was dressed with a meyer lemon vinaigrette. juice from half a lemon, zest from the whole thing! shallots, minced (small shallot, a scant tbsp). white wine vinegar--a splash, emulsify with a light but fragrant olive oil (not Spanish, too strong) and salt and pepper to taste. flat leaf parsley to round it out.  the meat was culatello. it's a center cut of the prosciutto which is silky and has less of the fat than the outer sections.  people really into meat and curing think of culatello as a gem...those i know do. 

other notes:

* the pacific grove farmers market takes place on fridays from 4 pm - 7 pm (summer hours) on grand avenue and central avenue in pacific grove.

* i like my brussel sprouts split in half, tossed with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roasted at 400 for 20-25 minutes

* disclaimer: do not try popping wheelies in a prius at home. first, i'm pretty sure it is impossible. second, you might hurt yourself if you tried. make peanut butter pie instead.

weeknight roasted cashew chicken

sometimes i'm stuck on the mad hatter's tea cup ride: repetive spinning at increasing speeds! backpacks are packed, commutes endured, calls returned, sauces reduced, miles run down the coast, quesadillas griddled (again?!?), and, finally, pillows hit hard. repeat ad infinitum. this is not to say there is no beauty in this rhythm--there is. but sometimes i miss it because i travel at such an unnerving pace. when i notice this happening, i let my meals start to punctuate my routine. they are the pause: a sun-warmed mango peeled over the kitchen sink. nutty pebbles of brown rice in a favorite bowl piled with sugar snap peas and a decadent sliver of smoked salmon. i eat this with chopsticks for a forced slowness. i say thank you between bites. best yet, i crack open a cookbook and find a new recipe. something simple but peppered with strong flavors. cooking a new dish is a jolt into presence.

and so i came upon a short, sweet recipe for spicy, garlicky cashew chicken in melissa clark's new book, in the kitchen with a good appetite (buy the book, cook from it, be happy). each ingredient spoke to me: roasted cashews, garlic, cilantro, soy sauce, jalapeno, olive oil, lime juice, and the littlest bit of brown sugar whirred into a thick, fragrant paste in the food processor, then smeared over meaty, bone-in chicken legs. clark calls for grilling the chicken (which i am certain would be divine), but in the interest of ease, i tossed everything in a large roasting pan, slipped it into the oven and returned 45 minutes later to golden cashew chicken euphoria. served with a handful of fresh cilantro and a bowlful of lime wedges, it makes for a simple yet decadent weeknight meal, but i hope you love it enough to share with your friends, slowly and with laughter, until the ride stops spinning.

roasted cashew chicken

(serves 4, with some leftovers)

3-1/2 pounds bone-in, skin on chicken thighs and drumsticks (obviously organic, free-range chicken will make for a tastier dish)

1-1/2 cups roasted, salted cashews

1/2 cup cilantro leaves, and some stems, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons soy sauce

4 large cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped

1 jalapeno, coarsely chopped (deseeded if you don't want it majorly spicy)

juice from 2 limes + extra lime wedges for serving

2 teaspoons brown sugar

kosher salt & pepper

place the cashews, 1/4 cup of the cilantro, olive oil, soy sauce, jalapeno, garlic, lime juice, and brown sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. puree until smooth (there will still be some small bits of cashews), scraping down the bowl as necessary. divide the cashew mixture in half (save one half of the mixture for serving on the side).

season the chicken drumsticks and thighs with salt and pepper. rub the cashew mixture all over the chicken, coating evenly, about 1 tablespoon of mixture per piece. use some of the reserved sauce if you don't have enough of the mixture. place the chicken in a large container or bowl, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for a few hours, or overnight. remove the chicken about an hour before you plan to roast it to allow it to come to room temperature.

preheat the oven to 425. coat the bottom of a large roasting pan with a slick of olive oil. you want a pan large enough to fit all of the chicken without overlapping. place the chicken pieces skin side up in the roasting pan. roast for about 45 minutes (more or less, depending on the size of your chicken pieces), until the top is golden, toasted in places, and the juices run clear.

remove the chicken to a serving platter, sprinkle with the remaining cilantro, and serve immediately, with lime wedges and the reserved sauce. cook's bonus: the browned bits on the bottom of your roasting pan are cashew heaven. sneak them while no one is looking.

notes

* this recipe was adpated from melissa clark. you can purchase her new book here.

* i always like to start with a bit of jalapeno and taste the sauce, then add more if it needs more kick. it is nearly impossible to de-spicyfy a sauce once it's been pureed. clark recommends splitting open your jalapeno and "licking the guts" to determine how spicy your specimen is.

* if you prefer to grill your chicken like clark, use less of the cashew mixture on each chicken piece (a lot will fall off into the grill). grill over medium heat for 20-30 minutes, turning frequently.

* if you didn't start early enough to marinate your chicken, do not fret. it will still be delicious. just coat it in the sauce and hand it to the oven.

dinner with dot

do you know what i love even more than eating? 

cooking.

especially when cooking involves my dearest friend dot, aka lauren orman. in honor of our turning thirty (within four days of each other), dot and her boyfriend, christian, took a little drive from their home in carmel, california to san diego. the photo above shows us piled into a prius with thing 1 & thing 2, set out for the most important kind of mission: produce. the beauty of making dinner with dot is embarking with only the vaguest of plans and letting whatever we find inspire us. i don't know how to do that very well, but this lady does!

is there any better source of inspiration than chino's vegetable shop in rancho santa fe? dot picked a bagful of tender, buttery lettuce and bouquets of the tiniest spring onions and leafy sorrel. i went straight for the grumpiest looking, most esoteric root vegetables i could find. what can i say? i like produce that scowls at me from time to time. craggly, knobby celery root, parsnips, and sunchokes won my heart, in addition to red spinach and spring garlic.

while dot & christian spent the afternoon playing afoot and afield in san diego, i set the table with the assistance of thing 1 & thing 2. they are experts in the art of scattering rose petals and blowing out candles. they also made place cards for everyone and spent the better part of an hour bickering over who would sit next to dot. chairs were rearranged so thing 1 & thing 2 could make a dot sandwich and everyone was cheerful when our co-chefs arrived.

seeing this picture of dot's wild mushroom salad with truffle vinaigrette is making my mouth water all over again. earthy pan-browned mushrooms entangled in the prettiest of lettuces and showered with shards of pecorino romano, spring onions, and celery root greens, then all united with a slurry of meyer lemon juice and truffle oil. dot is really gorgeous, but i have other reasons for being in love with her.

(dot's recipe here)

a bowl of fragrant blood oranges and those grumpy root vegetables inspired my entree. i used a favorite recipe for slow roasted sea bass (the very best recipe for serving thick, fleshy fish to a crowd), and set it atop a puree of parsnips, celery root, and sunchokes with flash-cooked red spinach laced with green garlic and currants. the entire pile got doused over with bright blood orange sauce and a crumble of hazelnuts. no one complained.

(recipe here)

finally, dot and i found a pretty way to serve the sesame seed benne wafers we had baked earlier in the afternoon. the recipe for benne wafers comes courtesy of the wednesday chef. it can be found here. our advice: sprinkle them generously with sea salt before baking and leave them in the oven for an extra minute. they are peculiarly addictive, especially if you set them beside apples roasted in red wine, spiced whipped cream, and pomegranates.

(recipe here)

 

beautiful things happen when you cook with your best friend. at the end of the night, you have a dinner to share over candles and rose petals. plus, look at those two lovely lovebirds i got to laugh and feast with. could life get any sweeter? why, yes.

the day after this delightful meal went down, christian and dot got engaged!

permit me to gloat: on dot and my's 25th birthday we took a roadtrip to big sur, california where christian lived and i played a cosmic part in introducing them for the first time. and now, two of the most wonderful people i know are gettin' hitched.

the love continues shortly with a ten bites interview with miss dot. soon to be missus.

shrimp with oranges, black rice & coconut milk

 
weeknight cooking is all about simplicity and speed without sacrificing elegance and flavor. seafood, so long as you purchase it from a trusted purveyor the day you plan to use it, never fails at being fast and delicious. only in the case of shrimp do i employ the freezer. if you can, buy your shrimp frozen. what you see at the market is, for the most part, frozen and dethawed, and you have no way of knowing when that happened. dethaw them in cool water just before you plan to use them--it happens fast. then give yourself 45 minutes, including about 30 minutes of inactive cook time, for this colorful plate to emerge. 

shrimp with oranges, black rice, and coconut milk

serves 4

1 1/2 cups black rice

1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

2 navel oranges, peel cut off & cut into segments (aka supremes)

1 teaspoon honey

20 jumbo shrimp or prawns (U10-12's, about 2 pounds total), peeled and deveined

kosher salt & pepper

4 tablespoons neutral tasting olive oil

1 cup coconut milk

1 teaspoon mild curry powder

2 cups baby spinach leaves

place the rice in a pot (that has a fitted lid) and cover with 2 3/4 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to very low. cover and cook for 30 minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the rice is cooked through. spread the rice out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

pour the orange juice in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. simmer until the orange juice has reduced to 1/4 cup. swirl in the orange segments and the honey. set aside.

pat the prawns dry with a clean dishtowel or paper towels. sprinkle with salt and pepper. heat a large skillet with enough olive oil to evenly coat the bottom of the skillet (1 - 2 tablespoons). when the oil is shimmering and quite hot, add the prawns in a single layer--you may have to work in batches. do not move them for 1 1/2 minutes, until a seared golden crust is formed, and then flip them and continue to cook 1 minute longer, until just cooked through. remove the prawns to a plate. add an additional 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet and then add the rice. cook for one minute, stirring frequently, then add the curry powder and coconut milk. cook an additional minute, then toss in the spinach.

spoon the rice onto individual serving dishes and top with the prawns. spoon the orange sauce over the prawns. serve immediately.

notes

* here is a great video tutorial on cutting citrus segments

* i have a good source for shrimp from mexico. they are incredibly sweet and taste of the ocean. if you can find them, get them. they do not disappoint.

* "forbidden" black rice is available at whole foods market and many other specialty food stores. it can even be purchased at amazon.