groove food

farro with edamame & arugula

lately, all i can think about is the recipe for "variations on caramel" in eric ripert's le bernadin cookbook. its introduction warns you against making it. there are three pages of ingredients followed by 17 steps, each a paragraph long. it requires shaping caramel snowballs and piping caramel mousse into brittle, translucent caramel cups.  i must (must, must, must!) make it. when it comes to recipes, i go straight for the proust. unless it has six ingredients which are farro, edamame, arugula, tomatoes, aged balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. and three steps, one of which is boiling water. and is almost as seductive as, say, a caramel snowball when you spoon it on the plate, glistening, bright, lazily co-mingling.

farro with edamame, arugula & tomato vinaigrette

(serves 6 as a side dish or salad)

2 cups farro

1 pound fresh or frozen shelled edamame

5 - 6 ounces arugula

2 medium heirloom tomatoes, cored and chopped into 1/4 - 1/2 inch chunks

2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

2 small garlic cloves, minced (optional)

1/3 - 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

kosher salt + cracked black pepper

boil three quarts of water in a large pot. generously salt the water and add the farro. cook for 20-35 minutes, tasting periodically for doneness. when the farro is just almost al dente, add the edamame and cook for three minutes more. drain in a colander and allow to cool to room temperature.

combine the tomatoes, aged balsamic vinegar, and 1/3 cup olive oil in a bowl. season with salt and pepper to taste.

toss the farro, edamame, and tomato vinaigrette together in a large salad bowl. fold in the arugula. add additional oilve oil if needed to coat. taste again and adjust seasonings. serve immediately.

notes

* there are still plenty of heirloom tomatoes with personality here in san diego. if tomatoes have vanished from your city (i am so sorry), this dish would also work deliciously with citrus dressing or substituting 1/2 cup of caramelized onions for the tomatoes.

 

a fall salad

for every season, a salad. this one, brimming with all manner of things crunchy and fresh, is my choice for fall. i discovered it while flipping through urban italian, trying desperately to talk myself out of beelining for citrus tiramisu. andrew carmellini calls it "fall insalata"--a man who agrees with my theory on seasons and salads and does so in italian! i scanned over the ingredients: tart apples (yum), plump raisins (yum), fennel (yum), salty slivers of parmesan (yum), toasty marcona almonds and breadcrumbs (yum), torn basil (yum). i concluded YUM and got to work. a great salad requires attention. carefully select your ingredients, treat them kindly, and go easy on the dressing (you can always add more later but rescuing an overdressed salad is as easy as unsalting your stock). your diligence will be repaid in the form of a salad that barely makes it to the plate. i ate half of it straight out of a battered stainless steel mixing bowl and it fully exceeded my expectations of yum. buon appetito.

apple & fennel salad with greens, marcona almonds & parmesan

(serves 6 as a starter)

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 lemon, finely zested and juiced

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 cup panko breadcrumbs (or fresh breadcrumbs)

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

8 ounces arugula

8 ounces watercress

10 basil leaves, torn

1 sweet-tart apple, such as honeycrisp or fuji, cored and sliced into thin slivers

1 fennel bulb, cored and sliced into thin slivers

1 celery stalk, sliced into thin slivers

1/2 cup marcona almonds, roasted and salted

1/2 cup shaved parmesan cheese (use a vegetable peeler)

sea salt & cracked black pepper

soak the raisins in 1 cup boiling water for 20-30 minutes to reconstitute. drain and dry on paper towels.

make the salad dressing: whisk together the lemon zest and lemon juice in a medium bowl. slowly drizzle in 1/4 cup olive oil while whisking, to emulsify.

make the breadcrumbs: heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. add the breadcrumbs and thyme and toast until golden, 5-10 minutes. remove to a plate to cool.

combine the arugula, watercress, torn basil, raisins, apples, fennel, celery, and marcona almonds in a large salad bowl. drizzle a bit of the dressing over the salad and toss gently to combine. add more dressing if needed to lightly coat the contents. add salt and pepper to taste. plate individual salads and top each with slivers of parmesan and a sprinkle of breadcrumbs.

notes

* this recipe was barely adapted from andrew carmellini's recipe in his book urban italian

* you will have leftover breadcrumbs--they will keep for 2 weeks in the fridge or even longer in the freezer

* if you cannot find marcona almonds, walnuts, pecans, or pine nuts work well

market greens with melted leeks, goat cheese & torn croutons

have you noticed i have a thing for salad? i'm not talking about the kind that comes out of a bag barely green or, even worse, the one that you spritz with fat free dressing (it's not salad dressing if it comes in a spray bottle). i have a thing for cold, crisp, just-picked lettuces in every verdant shade, some freckled aubergine, too. i like the leaves sheathed in a slurry of opulent olive oil and lemon juiced between your palms. then, i want flavor and texture at play--a creamy handful of goat cheese and a rubble of croutons that burst garlicky olive oil in your mouth. finally, a few spoonfuls of still warm caramelized leeks to top it all off, ever so slightly melting into everything, followed by a sprinkle of sea salt from high above and a few cracks of black pepper. fork, please.

market greens with melted leeks, goat cheese & torn croutons

(serves 4)

for the torn croutons

1 loaf french bread, crusts trimmed off, torn into 1 - 2 inch pieces (about 3 cups total, you may not need all of the loaf)

extra virgin olive oil 

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 garlic cloves, crushed

sea salt

for the salad

3 leeks, white and light green parts only, cut vertically, then sliced in 1/2 inch half moons

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled

12 ounces fresh salad greens (arugula, baby romaine, mesclun)

for the dressing

1 teaspoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon dijon mustard

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

prepare the torn croutons: fill a skillet large enough to fit all of the croutons with 1/8 inch of olive oil (if you don't have a skillet that large, use two smaller ones). set over medium heat. once the olive oil is warm, add the butter and garlic cloves. once the butter has melted, add the torn bread. turn the heat down a little. the key is to cook the croutons over low heat so they do not dry out. cook for 10-15 minutes, turning the croutons every couple of minutes, until golden brown. season with sea salt. do not remove to paper towels. let the croutons cool in the skillet.

prepare the leeks: if the leeks have any grit or dirt on them, rinse them in cool water and pat dry with paper towels. heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks begin to turn soft and shrink. add the white wine vinegar and season with a pinch of salt. continue to cook until the leeks turn golden and are quite soft, 15-20 minutes. turn off the heat, but keep the leeks warm in the pan.

prepare the dressing: combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, honey, and dijon in a medium mixing bowl. whisk to combine. slowly drizzle in the olive oil as you whisk, until emulsified. season with salt & pepper.

prepare the salad: toss the greens with a few tablespoons of the dressing, adding more dressing if desired. divide the greens among individual serving plates. divide the goat cheese and croutons among the salads and top each one with a scoop of the warm leeks (you may have some leeks leftover for another use). drizzle a little bit of additional dressing over each salad, in addition to seasoning with a small pinch of sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. serve immediately. 

notes

* the torn croutons were adapted from a recipe in thomas keller's ad hoc cookbook. leftover croutons will keep for a couple days in an airtight container at room temperature.

a little lettuce love

if you're stuck in a slump, make a salad. i might be a little eccentric, but making a salad can lure me from the corner of my brain that is perpetual june gloom. i don't retreat there very often, but when i do, i make a salad and am immediately reminded of a number of things: the earth is weird and wonderful, lettuce tastes like waking up, and the only thing blocking me from happiness is me. the natural progression from head into heart is then heart into hands. my hands want to make salad. there is no better honor to a bowl full of vegetables than homemade dressing. this one may take a few extra moments to whip up, but trust me, it's worth it.

citrus dressing

(makes about 3/4 cup dressing)

1 cup freshly squeezed citrus juice - from oranges, tangerines, blood oranges or a combination

1 teaspoon finely grated zest from an orange, tangerine, or blood orange

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons honey

2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely minced shallot

1 pinch of red pepper flakes

½ - ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil, to taste (use the best you have available)

sea salt & freshly cracked pepper

pour the citrus juice in a small saucepan and set over medium low heat. bring to a boil and then lower to a steady simmer. continue to simmer until the juice has reduced to 1/4 cup. set aside to cool.

combine the citrus zest, lemon juice, honey, parsley, shallot, red pepper flakes, and cooled, reduced citrus juice in a medium mixing bowl. whisk to combine. pour the olive oil in, just a few drops at first, while whisking. continue to pour the olive oil in a very slow stream while whisking until emulsified. adjust the amount of olive oil to your preference. season with salt and pepper.

notes

* this citrus is lovely on any combination of ultra-fresh greens. however, here are some other delicious ways to feature this dressing:

    spicy salad greens, new potatoes, green beans,                 prosciutto & mission figs (shown above)

    mache, blanched asparagus & ricotta salata

    roasted beets, blood orange supremes, goat cheese

    arugula, shaved fennel & pine nuts

    brown rice, pistachios & golden raisins

* this dressing will keep for several days in an airtight container or jar in the fridge. i like to bring it to room temperature before using, letting the flavors open up.

quinoa salad with maple roasted butternut squash

i'm in the camp that eating something good for you should also be a pleasure. i also favor dishes appealing to all eaters--vegetarians, vegans, and those abstaining from gluten included. this quinoa salad fits the bill deliciously. the idea was born after receiving a sweet note from my friend, laina. she claimed i came to mind while she was eating quinoa and maybe it was because she thought of me as a rich, exotic source of omegas. it may be the best compliment i've ever received, though one i felt obligated to earn. quinoa has an earthy, nutty flavor and a barely detectable crunch. butternut squash, with its voluptuous figure and flavor to match, is the ultimate partner. fall staples come in to tie them together--maple, coriander, thyme, toasty walnuts, cranberries, and sherry vinegar. its served at room temperature, so its ideal for sharing...with anyone and everyone.

quinoa salad with maple roasted butternut squash & walnuts

(serves 10 as a side dish)

4 - 5 cups butternut squash (from an 8-10 pound squash), peeled and chopped in 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1/4 + 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

2 cups quinoa (red or white), rinsed until the water is clear

1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 cup dried cranberries (or pomegranate arils, if available)

1/4 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest

3 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (or substitute white wine vinegar)

kosher salt & pepper

preheat oven to 400 with a rack set in the middle of the oven. combine the maple syrup, thyme leaves, 1 teaspoon of ground coriander and 1/4 cup of olive oil in a medium mixing bowl. whisk the ingredients to combine. place the butternut squash in a large roasting pan and drizzle the maple syrup mixture over it. toss together with your hands so that the squash gets evenly coated. season with 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper. roast for 40-45 minutes, stirring at 15 minute intervals, until the squash is tender but holds its shape. cool in the pan set on a rack.

place 4 cups of water in a medium saucepan (that has a fitted lid) with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. bring to a boil. add the quinoa, return to a boil, and then lower the heat to medium-low. cover, and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the water has been absorbed. fluff with a fork and immediately spread the quinoa out on a baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

combine the orange zest, orange juice, sherry vinegar, and 1 teaspoon of ground coriander in a medium bowl. slowly drizzle in 1/3 cup olive oil while whisking. season with salt and pepper.

when the quinoa and butternut squash have cooled toss them together in a large bowl with the walnuts, cranberries, parsley, and orange juice dressing. make sure to scrape in any liquid that may be leftover in the butternut squash pan--it is delicious. season the salad with salt and pepper. serve at room temperature.

notes

* you can make this salad several hours (or even a day) ahead and store in the refrigerator. just wait until serving to add the walnuts and cranberries (or pomegranate), and make sure it comes to room temperature before you serve it. 

* on a somewhat unrelated note, i once watched laina's childhood jack russel, odie, swallow a gopher whole. it still ranks as one of the most memorable things i have ever witnessed. odie may be the only creature who might scoff at this salad. gophers, man.

heirloom watermelon salad with lime & cilantro

i have two goals related to watermelon. the first is to eat as much of it as possible. the second is to boldly try every variety in my vicinity. i tend to gravitate toward those with irresistible names: sugar baby, golden midget, jubilee, yellow doll, moons n stars, and my all time favorite, extazy. i would love to be the one in charge of naming watermelons, race horses, tomatoes, and roses. i'd settle for being the authority on developing new ways to enjoy a watermelon. this salad is the latest--sweet, crisp melon perked up with lime zest and heat from the chiles, then leveled off with few creamy slivers of ricotta salata. extazy.

heirloom watermelon salad with lime & cilantro

(serves 8)

2 tablespoons lime zest

1/4 cup lime juice

1 small serrano chile (red or green), minced after removing seeds

1 teaspoon agave nectar or honey

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

sea salt

2 pounds watermelon (from one melon or a combination of melons), rind & seeds removed, sliced into small triangles, about 1/2 inch thick

2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

4 ounces ricotta salata

combine the lime zest, lime juice, serrano chile, and agave nectar in a medium mixing bowl. whisk to combine an slowly drizzle in the olive oil. season with salt and pepper.

arrange the watermelon slices and heirloom tomatoes on individual plates. shave pieces of ricotta salata on top. use a spoon to drizzle dressing over each salad and top with a few of the cilantro leaves. alternatively, the salad can be assembled in a large salad bowl and tossed together with the dressing.

ma cherie, tomato (part 1)

life is like a box of chocolate, a bowl of cherries, and a bucket of cherry tomatoes. i recently became the recipient of what could only be described as a bounty of organic cherry tomatoes from my friend noelle's garden. as soon as i got alone with them and popped a few (okay, many) in my mouth, nina simone crooning "feeling good" piped through my head and everything else is a blur. how sweet is it that the glory of the tomato can come so tiny? each one tastes vaguely or dramatically different. some spent every day fattening in buttery sunlight, some stayed tiny and tart beneath a tangle of tomato leaves. i left them on the counter overnight and fell asleep thinking of all the possibilities.  by morning, the entire house was perfumed with sweet acidic sunshine.

ten things to do with cherry tomatoes

1. use them in a vibrant salad: grilled jumbo prawns, cherry tomatoes, mache, blanched yellow beans, shaved zucchini and spicy lemon-basil dressing

2. make tomato-verbena water. infuse h2o with halved cherry tomatoes and lemon verbena. strain if desired and serve chilled.

3. caprese on a stick: thread a cherry tomato, bocconcini mozzarella, and a basil leaf on a bamboo skewer.

4. make a simple salsa for grilled fish by combining quartered cherry tomatoes, capers, lemon zest, avocado oil and sea salt.

5. slow roast halved cherry tomatoes. after a bath in evoo, salt & pepper, slip them in the oven at 225 for 3 hours.

6. quick roast cherry tomatoes. give them the same bath described above and roast at 400 for 10 minutes.

7. dessert? cherry tomato sundae. sounds peculiarly delicious.

8. marinate cherry tomatoes by dousing them with olive oil, fresh herbs, minced garlic & a quick splash of balsamic vinegar. let the flavors meld for three or four hours. serve spooned over toast.

9. make utterly addictive spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and gremolata. recipe to follow tomorrow....

10.  slice open several cherry tomatoes and treat them with  "a lash of olive oil, a drizzle of red wine vinegar, and storm of black pepper." eat while devouring sam sifton's ode to the end of the season.

acknowledgments

* a very special thank you to susan s. for turning me on to the sifton article and to noelle l. for growing and sharing such inspiring, adorable tomatoes.

a summer salad

this salad does not exactly come together in a snap, but i promise you this: it is a pleasure to make and worth every second. consider it an event. spend the morning at the farmers market selecting the plumpest, juiciest summer corn and cherry tomatoes in every size and color. hunt down fresh beans--some farmers are even nice enough to partially shell them for you. bury your face in a bouquet of basil and take a deep belly breath. when you get home, turn on the grill and the stereo at the same time. give each ingredient and step special attention--it will pay off. improvise as much as you want. use different kinds of beans, toast the corn in a cast iron skillet instead of grilling it, or exchange lime for the lemon in the dressing. just make sure you eat it outside, preferably barefoot.

grilled corn, butter bean, cherry tomato & avocado salad

(serves 4 as a starter or side dish)

4-5 ears of corn, husked

1 tablespoon olive oil

kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 - 2 cups butter beans (aka lima beans), removed from pod, but not shelled (if you cannot find fresh beans, use frozen shelled edamame cooked according to the package instructions and cooled to room temp)

2 cups (roughly a pint) of cherry tomatoes, large ones halved, tiny ones kept intact

1 avocado, chopped in 1/2 inch cubes

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn

2 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh mint

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons creme fraiche (or plain yogurt)

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil

grill the corn: prepare a charcoal grill or gas grill for medium-high heat. brush the corn all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. grill a few minutes per side, depending on the size of the ear, until a few of the kernels are blackened. remove from the grill and cool at room temp. slice the kernels off each ear and place them in your salad bowl.

prepare the beans: place the butter beans in a small saucepan and cover them with water. bring the water to a boil--as soon as the water is boiling, cook for 5-7 minutes, until the beans are tender. while the beans cook, prepare an ice bath. as soon as they are done, strain them and immediately place them in an ice bath. slip them out of their shells and let them dry on a towel. add the beans to the salad bowl, along with the cherry tomatoes and avocado. sprinkle the basil and mint on top.

prepare the dressing: combine the zest, lemon juice, creme fraiche, and honey in a medium mixing bowl. whisk to combine. drizzle in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream while whisking, until the dressing has emulsified. season the dressing with salt and pepper. (the dressing may be made a day or two in advance)

when ready to serve, drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss with a spoon until the salad is coated (you may not need all of the dressing).

notes

* no matter how much of this salad you make, it will get devoured

* you can make the salad an hour or two in advance of serving--just wait to add the dressing. try to find a cooler place in the kitchen to store it. you can also refrigerate it for a few hours. be certain to bring it back to room temperature before serving.

i hope this salad makes you happy.