groove food

ten bites: melissa mylchreest

I don't get to keep a lot of memories, so I pay attention to my small collection. I can't recall many details of classes at Connecticut College, but I remember Melissa Mylchreest, sitting in a barely sunny classroom in Blaustein Humanities Center, reciting "The Waking" by Galway Kinnell. We'd been asked to memorize a poem to share with the class. Most of us chose something short and straightforward, but Melissa took on Kinnell's erotic epic and hypnotized us all. Her voice stayed as steady and elegant over the word flamingos as it did the f-word, and her face will never leave me: vulnerable yet certain, filled with the kind of beauty that is totally unaware of itself. I am happy for the world that Melissa writes and cooks, perhaps a little envious of the residents of Missoula, Montana that get to admire her up close and taste herbs from her garden. Tomorrow I will share one of her poems--a collage using bits from this blog. For now, her take on flavors and food processors, pea vines and Paul Simon. As with so much that she does, a celebration.

Melissa's Disclaimer: I am utterly incapable of “favorites” – the world is too full of variety and wonderfulness to have one favorite anything.  Always, my pleasures are at the whim of the weather, the season, the company, the mood.  So.  Today? On this lazy April morning with a late-season snow coming down? These answers are my loves today.  Tomorrow will bring something new to adore. Isn’t it grand how that works? 

Food memory?

* Family gatherings at Gramma and Papa Italiano’s house, with all the women in the small kitchen fussing over the food and gossiping. Hand-making tortellini with this same Gramma and her sisters and cousins.  

* In college, Earth House dinner parties and illicit nighttime picnicking at Harkness Park.

* Apple picking every year with my family at Lost Acres Orchard in North Granby, CT, followed by ice cream at the local dairy.

* Steaming mussels in seaweed on the beach of a little island off the Maine coast.

* Knocking back oysters onboard an oyster-fishing boat in Puget Sound.

* “Meat at the Pit,” a gathering held by friends far off the grid here in Montana: a bonfire barbeque on the banks of the river, willow saplings whittled down to skewers, and the guest of honor: platters of wild game cut into chunks – antelope, venison, elk, moose. So much burning of fingers, so much revelry, so many ecstatic dogs underfoot.

Flavor?

A glutton for savory of every ilk.  Specifically, torrid unions involving dairy: Balsamic-fig-prosciutto-blue cheese.  Goat cheese, caramelized onions and thyme. Alfredo anything. Seafood bisques.  A flurry of shaved parmesan or pecorino over risotto. Smoked gouda with sausage and cherry chutney.   Also, an insatiable penchant for coconut curry.

Cookbook?

I’m not too big on cookbooks, although I should be.  I like The Hay Day Country Market Cookbook, for no real good reason.  It’s the grimiest of my cookbooks, which I take as a measure of how often it’s open on the counter, getting splashed and spilled upon. 

Item in your kitchen?

My decrepit, cheapo, one-speed food processor.  I bought it at a time that I was more-or-less broke, but was desperate to make a mammoth batch of pesto. (I was homesick.  It was summer. My mom makes endless batches of pesto in the summer.  Buying a $40 food processor was a coping mechanism).  Remarkably, years later, it’s still powering through hummus, soup, dough, sauce, and yes, pesto, just fine. And, happily, I’m slightly less broke.

Springtime meal?

Like everyone else, when I think spring I think delicate, I think vegetables – asparagus, peas, garlic scapes, light dressings with lemon. But spring arrives tantalizingly slowly here, so there really isn’t much produce until late May, and that’s just what’s been growing in greenhouses. So invariably, before any of that, the first meal that really marks the start of spring is meat on the just-brought-out-of-storage grill; ideally, burgers and a cold beer after spending the whole day getting the garden tilled and ready to plant. Then eventually it’s greens, greens, greens, all the time.  Especially pea vines! It’s delightful to eat something so whimsically curly. Best with purple potatoes, capers, and mustard vinaigrette.

Local Restaurant?

People in Missoula often groan about the dearth of good restaurants.  Generally, these are folks who have recently arrived from a big-ish city, and are accustomed to having their pick of global cuisine.  True, there are a few glaring holes in the culinary scene – Indian food, for one.  But in reality, there’s a rather astonishing number of small, swank, creative little eateries here – certainly a higher concentration here than anywhere else in the state – and an impressive number considering it’s a town of only 60k people.  There’s also this absolutely rabid “eat and source local” thing going on, so the chefs, farmers and ranchers in this valley maintain a thriving network.

Some of the best:  For tapas, Silk Road. For pizza and salads, Biga.  For good, upscale eating, Scotty’s Table.  For feeling dreadfully posh, The Red Bird Wine Bar.  Also, a guy who shows up to the farmer’s markets and peddles his wares from a booth bearing the sign “Mmm, Waffles.” Imagine: chilly, sunny Montana morning, the early bustle of the market, and a buckwheat waffle “taco” of sorts, filled with blueberries, lemon curd, and whipped cream.  Oh my. 

Also, in memoriam: La Parilla, which had the best burritos ever (think coconut-curry-tofu, or fried-catfish-and-cilantro-slaw), and was my number one eat-out go-to.  They closed in January. I am bereft.

Guilty Pleasure?

Cheetos. Appalling, yes. But so finger-stainingly good.  I allow them once or twice a year, and I hide the bag so I don’t have to share.

Herb?

Culinarily speaking, basil.  It might seem an unambitious answer, but it’s true.  So versatile, such luscious leaves, such a knock-out scent, such an amenable plant, willing to grow in a cramped pot in a drafty kitchen all winter long, gladly offering itself to a whole world’s-worth of cuisine.  Aromatically speaking, though, it’s all lavender, all the time.  There’s lavender all over my house.  Big dried bouquets of it in every room.  Bowls-full of the loose dried flowers.  It’s in the drawers, on the shelves, little pinches of it tucked in pockets or under the rug.  I use it in cooking too, sometimes, but not as fanatically as I use it in my décor.  Other favorites: thyme and marjoram. Oh! And cilantro too, luscious and divisive creature that it is.

Album to cook to?

Paul Simon, Rhythm of the Saints. I like to listen to all kinds of music while I cook, but for some reason this is the album that I always come back to in the kitchen.  Maybe because I like to sing while I cook, and Simon’s poetry begs to be memorized and sung.  I also listen to a lot of public radio. 

Dish to conquer?

Bread. Seriously!  I think the perfect loaf of bread is something that might take a lifetime to conquer.  Good thing I’m not that old yet; my bread has a long way to go.

Notes

* All of the photographs in this post courtesy of Melissa Mylchreest.

* Read Galway Kinnell's "The Waking" here.

* For more information on the Missoula restaurants mentioned in this post, visit them on the web: Silk Road, Biga Pizza, Scotty's Table, and The Red Bird Wine Bar.

ten bites: art mitchell

I am indisputably related to Art Mitchell. For one thing, he is my dad's brother. But there is also the fact that he plans our family's Christmas meal months out, carefully selecting a country, researching its Christmas foods, and penning the menu in the language of that country. When it comes to eating, we are a family of extreme measures. Art's travels are built around restaurants he will visit and foods he will try. I bet he would spend an extra hour or two in transit if it meant the best cannoli or oyster at the destination. I know I would.  But the most telltale sign of our relation is my uncle's use of the word awesome in this ten bites interview: all in CAPS, followed by an exclamation point. Some might save such a superlative for describing Jupiter being bold and visible on a clear night, but my uncle lays it on a taco. Which, in my mind, makes him AWESOME!

Best meal in San Diego?

This is a hard one as I have had so many outstanding meals in San Diego. Where to start?  Growing up in San Diego, I have watched it progress from a town best known for “Jack-in-the-Box” and thousands of Sonoran style taco shoppes to becoming a cosmopolitan city with so many outstanding restaurants.   So, I would have to classify them: Best Romantic dinner was at the Marine Room;  Best Seafood was at Point Loma Seafood; Best Festive meal is a toss-up between 1500 and Misters A’s.

Winter salad?

It is more of an autumn salad, but the Waldorf salad is my favorite.

Cookbook?

Well, to get down to the basics and still be able to prepare a wide range of foods, I would boil it down to three books: Bernard Clayton’s, The New Complete Book of Bread and James Beard’s two companion books, The New James Beard and James Beard’s Theory and Practice of Good Cooking.  I might throw in Beard’s book on Fish Cookery. With these three books, you could fill your lifetime with outstanding food.

Beverage of choice?

Nothing like fresh, sun-warmed blood orange juice: picking the three or four oranges from the tree on a warm Southern California afternoon in mid-February to immediately squeeze them.  Truly nectar of the food gods!

Christmas food?

Work in progress, still so many cuisines and traditions to sample.

Food memory?

My first fish tacos: that would be 1979 on the quay in Ensenada.  Back before container ships made Ensenada a port-o-call and you could see Todo Santos island from the quay.  My brother and I were on our way to a Hobie Cat regatta in Punta Banda, which is 10km south of Ensenada.   We hit the Corona distributor first to replenish our supply of Coronas—did I mention the beers were 10 cents apiece, including the bottle deposit?  Duly replenished, it was down to the quay.  As the fisherman were bringing in their harvest from the sea, there stood a little Mexican Lady with her food stand—a table under a tiny umbrella, a pot of oil, some mismatched bowls, a meat cleaver, and a rather worn chopping block.   While we watched, she carefully chopped up some salsa and cabbage.  As the fisherman walked by, she bought some fresh fish, filleted the fish, and battered and fried it.  Within minutes we were feasting on twenty-five cent fresh fish tacos!  AWESOME!

Person, dead or alive, you'd most like to eat with?

Le emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte, that is.  I would love to dine with him after the Battle of Marengo. Maybe then I could end the age old food controversy: veal or chicken Marengo?

 Most challenging dish you've ever prepared?

If you go to the extremes of food science and technique, there can be many challenges on every dish: boiling an egg can be a science.  In the extremes, one challenge was Julia Childs’ recipe for the classic coq au vin. I think there were like 40-50 steps to the recipe.  The other challenging dish was Kulebiaka, which is a puff pastry salmon dish from the Baltic Sea region of Russia.  The salmon-filled pastry loaf is about two feet long, six inches wide and five inches tall.  The pastry shell is covered with pastry leaves and stems.  The finished Kulebiaka is as magnificent to behold as it is to eat.

Piece of kitchen equipment or utensil?

Other than that perfect spoon, I would say my Kitchen Aid Stand Mixer is essential.  There are so many loaves of bread to bake.

Food destination?

In the past four years, Seattle, Washington with its fresh local ingredients and variety of cuisines is truly unbelievable.

Notes

* Image of Napolean eating a Napolean is courtesy of of twelve_cards' on flickr

* Image of Pike's Place Market is courtesy of moi. I took it from a window at Matt's in the Market. Go there.

* The photograph of my uncle is at Blanca Restaurant in Solana Beach, California during restaurant week. Our meal included a delectable quenelle of olive oil ice cream, among many other delights. Visit Blanca here.

 

ten bites: francisco arechiga

"24 Hours in the Lair of Insanity." A title burned into my memory. It was a piece written for my high school newspaper, chronicling Cisco's attempt at spending 24 hours confined to our local Denny's. Both a brazen exposé (simultaneous celebration) of Mozzarella Sticks and dramatic portrayal of the cast of characters that staffed the Denny's on Encinitas Boulevard, it captivated me as much then as it does today. Whenever I need a jolt of life's vibrant, tastable, strange beauty, I dig through old issues of "The Mustang" (the aforementioned periodical) and read Cisco's work. Or, I'll spend some time with his photographs: goosebump-inducing, expansive environments, or quietly stunning renditions his fiancee, Pan. Better yet, I will climb to the top of a hill and drink air with him.

Flavor?

"Dirt" like its been dragged through the sieve of the earth. Right now I am munching on fistfuls of rinsed kale. I like tastes that don't register on the descriptive palette for food, I think of flavors like angular, jagged, porous and oxidized.

Food Destination?

K.L. 24 jam. Street food in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 24 jam, means 24 hour. I love wading out into the humidity; lush fragrant chaos spilling over the cityscape. It's got this really cool tropico-future vibe. I love the people, Malaysians are so cosmopolitan, so cool, their posture 100% slack. The food is bright and spicy and not too complicated. They've got some serious cuisine out there; but I just like the plastic stools and plastic bags of soy milk. Reminds me of being a kid before the burden of self-awareness.

Beverage of choice?

Sparkling water. This is my most cherished consumable. I love it more than any food. It's like a crisp cool crystalline fire.

Food memory?

There used to be this Thai stall in one of the late-hour food courts in Berkeley, the guy claimed they had a "1 - 20" spicy scale. Being no stranger to spice and that being clearly ridiculous, I asked for 17. After a moment sizing me up, the guy said, "you get 8!" After several visits, building up report, I finally said, "come on give me 13," to which he just handed me a toothpick and said "eat this." My sinuses instantaneously erupted, body debilitated into a cold sweat, tongue searing helplessly like ceviche. That man had a pretty good sense of humor.

Most intriguing item of produce?

Radishes…rubies of the earth.

Cookbook?

Reading groovefood is as ambitious as I get. About 8 years ago I suppose I got philosophical about this idea of "intuitive" mixing etc. but that wore off. Now I primarily eat yogurt, sugar-free protein bars and Wasa crackers.

Guilty pleasure?

Sashimi. After 15 years of vegetarianism, I am never 100% comfortable eating meat; but sometimes when a certain tension of dolefulness and masculinity arises, I might slip into a sushi restaurant and eat some really buttery flesh. Chewing through sinews makes me think about the neolithic; its a specific kind of pleasure.

Food scene in a film?

Just got a visual flood from Tampopo. I wasn't able to identify a "scene" amidst the montage of gorging and sensuality, although I think the "sashimi" reminded of Japan and the carnal. 

Strangest thing you've ever eaten?

Fire Ant pâté. Actually not the strangest, but just sounds the fanciest. It was rather pleasant. My fiancee, (very Buddhist) jokingly threatened not to marry me if I ate it. It was strange too, because I particularly like ants. It was almost like eating a totem. As they were crunching around in my mouth, I thought of this passage from the intro to "Thousand Plateaus" were the authors describes the holographic experience of the text as passages and concepts migrating between different sections like the movements of ants.

Dessert?

Not really. Even fruit seems too "syrupy" for me these days. Touché to Ryan Shrock on figs….oh my.

Notes

* The photo of Cisco was taken on a cell phone at a food stall in Kunming. He confesses that he is taking a bite of dog meat and it is a scar on his hopefully compassionate soul.

* The image that follows is Cisco's self-portrait, offered in humor. He reports: "True to my lack of interest in food, I never was able to resolve my mouth in drawings; always a huge fan of the Freudian unconscious."

ten bites: laina guidero colgan

There are some people who make a meal taste better simply by their presence. For that reason, I like to think of Laina Guidero Colgan as my salt. There is also a flavor association, as many of the meals we've shared together have been breakfasts after early morning surf sessions when we actually got high school credits for waking up and surfing in the morning (not a bad deal, let me tell you). This is when we discovered that anything, from Pipe's Cafe breakfast burritos to steaming cups of coffee, taste a notch better with saltwater on your lips. Since our messy-tressed surf grom days, Laina and I have both become mothers and kitchen denizens. Her son, Dax, may eat better than many of us do on most days. And I will say, Laina looks just as ravishing in an apron as she does in a wetsuit.

Post surf breakfast?

Two places come immediately to mind. The first being The Beach Break Café here in Oceanside. It’s got all the makings of the perfect post-surf gorge-fest, huge portions, freshest ingredients, surfboards and nostalgia wall to wall and even the owner's surf/paddle outriggers. The Vegetarian Omelete with fresh fruit and coffee cake will keep me full an entire day. The second is a much more remote location, my old balcony in college, located in Kawana Waters Queensland, Australia.  Locally caught peel and eat prawns so sweet that any kind of sauce would simply detract. Plus, my balcony was prime location overlooking the break. Prawns, coldies, music, friends and a killer view, what more can anyone ask for?

Flavor?

I’m all about savory. Although I love my sweets I can’t bake to save my life so I naturally gravitate toward Tarragon, Herbs du Provence, Rosemary, Thyme, Nutmeg, good quality Parmesan, Toasted Pignolis. I love the flavor of a simple roast with nothing more that salt and pepper and its own fat.

Dish to perfect?

It seems like I am always working on my Paella. Luckily I’m not a Paella perfectionist so I don’t mind eating my goofs if the rice is too soggy or if my seafood wasn’t the right combo. I’m miffed why Paella’s gotten such a reputation for being a difficult dish. If seasoned right, it tastes really good to me even at its worst.

Baby food you wouldn't mind eating?

I make all my sons babyfood so essentially I eat it all! Making babyfood has been a complete joy. I make big batches on the weekend and freeze it into ice cube trays for later in the week. Now that Dax is a little older I’m adapting recipes so that I can make his dinner and ours at the same time. It’s been a really fun and healthful experiment.

Three songs to cook to?

Hard to pin down just three songs so I’m going to throw out my three favorite cooking bands; Robert Randolf and the Family Band for fun upbeat and low-fuss home-cooking. John Butler Trio for the back porch BBQ.  And, Buena Vista Social Club for hanging with friends drinking vino and eating anything from Caprese Salad to Quinoa & Zuchinni stuffed Peppers.

Food Memory?

Hands down my grandmother’s Bouillabaisse. She used to make it every Christmas. My mom can’t and won’t cook so I like to think that cooking skips a generation in our family. She would spend all day making it and I remember sitting eye-level to the bowl, with Crab legs making their escape and crusty bread in hand, deciphering which part I would dive into first. Before Dave and I were married we were entertaining friends and I decided I would make my first Bouillabaisse. All day I toiled only to realize that not everyone is obsessed with “Fish Soup." Needless to say, we ended up ordering pizzas and I ate Bouillabaisse until I was sick.

Cookbook?

I feel like Ina Garten and Julia Childs are my gourmand fairy godmothers. Since I’m the only one who cooked in our house growing up I learned everything I know from TV. Ina’s Barefoot in Paris definitely helped me solidify my cooking style.  It’s 100% the food I love, simple, country style French food. I’ve made every recipe since it was published and loved them all. As of right now I’m all over Cooking for Baby by Lisa Barnes. Dax loves the recipes and I like that I can make big batches and adapt half for adult consumption.

Wedding food?

I like when the Bride and Groom take their menu as an opportunity to showcase their individual styles. Dave and I got married in Fiji so we had ahi sashimi , steamed Wahoo in banana leaves with mixed vegis and a deadly-yet-fruity rum punch. All of which was chased down with waaaayyyy too much Kava. Dave thought he was the Crocodile Hunter by the time we made it back to bed that night. Locally, Ki’s in Cardiff does catering and they have an insane Apricot Baked Brie Dip that’s served in a giant bread bowl. I’ve hired them several times and although they’re predominantly vegetarian they really are crowd pleasers.

Favorite item in your kitchen?

Company. I love cooking while having someone to chat with. My friend Carley gave me a highchair that hooks to my counter so now it’s all about sautéing and babytalking. Other than that I love my knives. I’m a huge Global fan, the lighter weight and dual edges had me at hello. Plus I always feel confident holding the dimpled handles even with wet hands. I’m saving up for their Sushi Knife next.

Local treat?

One of my fav little treats is a Creole Watermelon Martini at 333 near the Oceanside Pier. All their specialty martinis are delish but, that Sweet/Spicy/Tangy martini keeps me coming back for more. Followed with a half dozen oysters and I’m in bliss-land. Plus they’ve got an insane Happy Hour for those of us who are broke and in bed by 8 anyway.

Notes

* The Beach Break Cafe is located at 1902 S Coast Highway in Oceanside, California

* 333 Pacific is located at 333 N. Pacific Street in Oceanside, California

ten bites: joe daly

When all eight burners on my range are flaring ecstatic, when three out of four recipes call for huge hits of habanero or harissa, when the evening entails breaking an All-Clad (it can be done), when all of the above absolutely must be accompanied by rocking out, I turn to Joe Daly.  Here is a man who has filled my stereo with Volbeat and Quarashi, Black Rebel Motorcycle Club and Clutch. I like to think of him as the secret ingredient for homemade Sriracha (aka Rooster) sauce. After all the blood and fire and fangs, I was surprised to learn that Joe is a long time vegetarian and practices yoga (but in true form, you're most likely to find him in Extreme Yoga--a class I believe you might be able to poach an egg in). I've never met anyone who loved his dogs more, or lavished such praise on my triple chocolate chip cookies. Is there any kind of better friend than that? I recommend reading his highly entertaining work on The Nervous Breakdown while eating a tofu chili dog. Warning: it will be spicier.

Local breakfast?

Here in North County, a great breakfast spot is as unique as the word "bro."  As a vegetarian, I can always find something tasty, but not always unique.  And so my favorite is the Naked Cafe, in Solana Beach.  The menu is more eclectic than anywhere else, combining classic breakfast platters with fresh and spicy twists that would unnerve a military sniper.  My girlfriend and I try to order at least one new dish between us (we're running out), and have yet to be let down.  My go to platter is the Calexxxican- egg whites scrambled, topped with soyrizo and tortilla chips, served with black beans, avocado, and feta cheese in a big bowl.  I also go with a Naked Cafe Shake (espresso, vanilla ice cream, chocolate chips), and proceed directly to Torrey Pines for a much-needed post-brunch hike. 

Strangest restaurant experience?

I went to Firefly Grill here in Encinitas last summer.  Again, as a vegetarian, perhaps a place with "Grill" featured so prominently would indicate some incompatibility issues.  Nonetheless, in ten years, I have never been shut down in a restaurant.  My friend and I were seated, and I noticed that the only veggie entree was a mushroom thingie, which is not my bag, baby.  And so when the waitress came by to see if we had any questions, I asked if they could throw a plate of pasta and vegetables together for me.  She looked at me as if I were dipped in sewage, and replied, "I don't think so.  We don't have anything like that."  I pointed out that there were several pasta options on the menu, just served with meat.  I also drew her attention to the children's menu, which featured spaghetti.  She retorted by drawing my attention to the fact that I was not a child, and walked away.  With no other recourse, we got up and left.  As we passed the host on the way out, who had just seated us about five minutes earlier, he looked at me curiously, so I said, "I guess you guys can't help vegetarians."  He replied, "Oh," and looked away.

Food Memory?

My mother used to make beef bourguignon when we were growing up.  It was horrible.  Fatty beef soaked in some repellent cream sauce, cheap booze, and served with limp noodles.  Because of this dish, I have never, ever, EVER taken pizza night for granted, to this very day.

Sandwich?

My new favorite sandwich may not technically be a sandwich- I'm not sure.  But it's the tofu chili hot dog at the Lotus Cafe in Encinitas.  The chili is flavorful, the bun is fresh and grainy, and the dog is as close as you get with a fake hot dog.  For bonus points, get one of their cakes, pies, or cupcakes, which are all creamy, sweet, and decadent.

Cookbook?

The PDQ Vegetarian Cookbook.  This book has given me loads of great recipes and ideas.  It's got over 200 recipes for really quick and tasty vegetarian meals, including about a hundred vegan ones.  My favorite is the calzone, which are super simple- you take a refrigerated pizza crust and spread it out on a greased tray.  Ladle on your spaghetti sauce of choice, plus shredded mozzarella.  I add chopped up vegetarian chicken patties and/or veggie sausage.  Cook for 12-15 minutes at 375 degrees,  Flip it over and cook for about 12 more minutes, cutting slits in the top.  Super tasty, super easy, super flavorful, and everyone thinks you are an amazing specimen of modern man.  At least that's what I picture my dogs thinking as I share it with them.

Ballpark food?

Ranch flavored sunflower seeds, M&Ms, and a massive diet soda.

Thing you never want to eat again?

Sushi.  I was out one night in Chicago with San Francisco Giants third base coach Tim Flannery, and we had a few jars in us.  He was telling me about eating uni, straight from the ocean.  He said it gave him a rush.  I said "Not only do I not eat sushi, I don't even eat fish."  Twenty minutes later we were sitting at a sushi bar, and he ordered me an uni roll with a raw quail egg on top.  Now, I didn't realize it then (I had never had sushi before), but what he ordered me was like the PhD of sushi.  It took me twenty minutes and two bottles of sake to get it down while he ate his, ordered more, drank his sake, and loudly suggested to the rest of the restaurant that perhaps my gender was not what it appeared to be.  I will never eat that again.  Ever.  You hear me, Flan?

Cake or pie?

Cake.  Cake.  Cake.

Guilty pleasure?

Self-serve frozen yogurt from Swirls.  I always mix two flavors and then load up on the toppings.  The key is to put the toppings in your empty cup first, then add the fro yo, then add more toppings.  Favorite fro yo flavors are cake batter, malted chocolate, and basically anything sweet.  The kids who work at Swirls are super nice and never make me feel guilty about the piggish delight in my eye when I put my fro yo on the scale and it makes a thud.

Song about food?

"Hospital Food," by David Gray.  A gorgeous song that has been one of my favorite songs ever since the album was first released.  The bridge of the song really does it for me- heartbreaking and beautiful, it still slays me every time I hear it. 

Notes

* Joe is wearing a t-shirt from Chicago Diner, an all vegetarian, mostly vegan eatery in his former hometown. It is located at 3411 N. Halstead in Chicago, Illinois

* Naked Cafe is located at 106 S. Sierra in Solana Beach, California

* Lotus Cafe & Juice Bar is located at 765 South Coast Highway 101 in Encinitas, California

* Swirls has two locations. The original at 2683 Via de la Valle, Suite E in Del Mar, California and their newest location at 204 N El Camino Real in Encinitas, California

 

ten bites: susan sbicca

it is hard not to start this post with a flood of zeal. i literally jump up and down whenever i see susan sbicca. she brings out my inner trampoline. and, here she is, at the top of my blog, wrapped in a pink boa! you can see why i am having a hard time typing. if you've eaten at sbicca bistro in del mar, you know susan's food. you've probably pondered, like i often have, as to how a meal could be so wildly creative and simultaneously like coming home. friends, i have an answer. susan is magic! her venture into raw food territory proved she could make a crumble of macadamia nut cheese taste as exciting and lovely as maple roasted pork prime rib with vanilla scented yams. if you're wondering how this is possible, it is because susan is behind it. the california restaurant association understands--susan received the well-deserved honor of chef of the year in 2006. for her boundless energy and quiet, steadfast selflessness, for the way i witnessed her drink jalapeno honey from her cupped hand, i like to think of her as most admired chef of my lifetime.

comfort food?

cooked: the first thing that comes to mind is wine braised short ribs- with truffle mashed potatoes- maybe some tart blue cheese in there somewhere.

raw:  a ripe avocado halved, sprinkled with fleur de sel (thanks to the author of this blog) and drizzled with fresh red serrano salsa (eaten with a spoon right out of its skin)

restaurant?

cooked:  boulevard in san francisco. nancy oakes is my hero.

raw: pure food and wine in NYC--to eat and see what they are doing

farmers market find?

a basket of black figs that burst when bitten ☺

utensil or piece of equipment?

cooked:  my old heavy steel one piece 2 oz ladel. sauces just taste better when I use it.

raw:  my new vitamix blender for velvety purees

cookbook?

the elements of taste by gray kunz and peter kaminsky. it changed everything about the way i looked at putting things together.  the idea that tastes push, pull and punctuate put into words the dance that occurs in every bite.

 

food memory?

a tie between two opposites--lunch at la grenoise restaurant in new york city and chocolate chunk cookies just out of the oven

cuisine to explore?

raw food- a new lens to explore old favorites

moment that influenced your decision to become a chef?

opening fat red anaheim chilies to stuff with guacamole for my first party… 1981

three people (living or deceased) to invite to dinner?

mick jagger, rudolf nureyev, and condoleezza rice

dessert?

warm chocolate chunk cookies or oozy epoisse cheese with fat, juicy figs

notes

* sbicca bistro is located at 215 15th street in del mar, california

* boulevard is located at 1 mission street in san francisco, california

* pure food & wine is located at 54 irving place, nyc, new york

 

ten bites: andy stancil

Of all the things I have in common with Andy Stancil, two are essential. Andy and I are both descendents of rebels. That's right--our ancestors were the original patriots, a fact contributing to our meeting each other some fifteen years ago. Secondly, we both have insatiable appetites. There is endless material to exchange on all gustative matters. It is the meat of our friendship. I value Andy's opinion above all others when it comes to food. He is bold in the kitchen and in life, but underneath it all is such earnestness and heart. I'd take a meal of his over any celebrity chef, any day. If you knew him, you would to.

Dish you most request?

Grits.  Love them.  Salty and creamy and buttery and glorious.  Whenever I find someone with a wondrous recipe for grits, I constantly request it.  As a brief aside, I recall once, in the wee hours of the morning at Waffle House in some uneventful town in middle America, convincing the author of this blog that grits, to be consumed properly, must be drank with straw.  That was perhaps when I first learned that grits were not a dish appreciated as widely as I had believed.

Pig part?

The easier way to answer this question would be to list the select few categories of porcine goodness which I do not love.  And that would be limited to trotters and tongue.  Though my love for all things pig ranges from crispy fried pork skin to luscious meaty belly – and almost everything in between - I have not managed to acquire a love of headcheese either . . . yet.  But the most glorious portion of the pig, and my favorite part therein, the jowl, resides right there next to all the other “heady” goodness so I am going to keep working on it.

Food memory?

Everything I ever got to eat from my amazing grandmother’s (“Mawmaw”) house.  Some of my warmest memories are of watching Mawmaw haul out her giant tub of Sunnyland Lard, scoop out a portion and throw it right into her flour trough, and proceed to magically transform that mess, solely from the warmth of her hands, into soft dough which soon morphed into crispy, fluffy, buttery biscuits.  If we were really lucky, we’d get some of those biscuits served alongside a dish of warm syrup poured over a cold wedge of butter, perfect for sopping.  Any wonder my entire family has a history of coronaries?

Beverage of choice?

I wish I could brag about some wonderful bottle of wine here – I want to be an oenophile, I really do.  I find it somewhat repulsive that I fancy myself such a food fanatic, yet have not mastered a dedication to wine.  I love wine, drink it whenever I can, but I just don’t have the time to master it at this point in my life, and as a result, if I had to pick a beverage of choice to have daily for the rest of my life, wine would not be it.  It would have to Bourbon as it is delicious and has it has been involved in some of my fondest memories:  roadtrips with friends, college football tailgates, going home to visit my wonderful parents and sharing a patio and a Manhattan or Old Fashioned with them.  A close second would be chocolate milk.  It is like crack to me.
 
Cookbook?

Right now it would have to be Ad Hoc.  Popular and unoriginal pick I know, but it is my kind of food and the techniques in the book are so transferable to other dishes.  The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook is solid also for great Americana food, minimal fuss and it always comes out nicely.  Nothing fancy, just functional.  The corn fritters in that book are earth shattering.

Most beloved item in your kitchen?

My crappy old analog radio.  It’s the only thing I use every time I am in the kitchen.  It picks up the local NPR station perfectly which is my favorite aural salvation after a long day at work when I just want to unwind in my kitchen and make some tasty vittles.  Its especially beneficial on Sunday’s for This American Life.   Despite my fondness for NPR, I promise promise promise I am not boring! 

Spot for BBQ?

Lexington Barbecue in North Carolina.  If you love vinegar sauce, smoked butts, and hot red pepper, this is your spot.  If you can’t make it to North Carolina but happen to be passing through Atlanta, check out Fox Brothers Barbecue.  Great meats and sides, and maybe the perfect hangover cure known as the Tomminator (mounds of homemade tater tots, topped with Brunswick stew and melted cheese).  Also, as an aside, please disregard any suggestion from any source (such as from George Clooney in Up in the Air) to visit Fat Matt’s in Atlanta.  Pedestrian at best.

Aphrodisiac?

While I’ve never noticed a direct link between what I eat and my resulting libido, there are certainly things that get the mind headed in that direction.  Oysters, though cliché, certainly get the wheels turning.  Red wine and Solomon Burke work too.

Restaurant you could never tire of?

La Pietra Cucina in the basement of the Invesco Building in midtown Atlanta.  Consistent, a nightly list of specials as long as the menu itself, pork-centric menu, friendly and unassuming service, and they have figured out a way to put an Italian spin on bourbon drinks.  Pretty close to heaven for me.  And its only 5 blocks from my house.

Last Supper?

Stiff cocktails around the table surrounded by my family and a few close friends.  A charcuterie plate, a shellfish platter, hot wings and beer to start.  Pork belly, golden crisp scallops, and short ribs, mashed potatoes, summer vegetable soup and corn bread.  Coconut pie.  All served at a leisurely pace and to a table of folks laughing and smiling too much to realize this is the “last” anything.

notes

* Lexington BBQ is located on Lookout Ave in Lexington, North Carolina

* Fox Brothers BBQ is located at 1238 Dekalb Avenue in Atlanta, Georgia

* La Pietra Cucina is located at 1545 Peachtree Street in Atlanta, Georgia

ten bites: georgia wright

one of the first meals i shared with georgia wright was at a pho shop in hanoi when we were undergraduates.  it was a nameless place on one of the streets that rippled out from hoan kiem lake, crowded with people inhaling hot soup despite the pervasive tropical heat that hung on even late night. over steaming bowls the size of hubcaps and messy heaps of cilantro we discovered we shared a birthday. i secretly hoped this meant i had some kind of claim on her.  georgia, and all that she does, is perpetual verve, though ever humble. reading her blog, ten thousand things, is a visual feast. the girl has such an eye--and her eye has such a soul. i couldn't wait to see food through georgia's lens. her answers do not disappoint. pull up a chair.

breakfast?

perfect white mugs of hot black coffee and a wooden bowl of fresh blueberries. watching the sky brighten with the sun. the first chill of fall coming over the water. today's paper.

food memory?

the worn finish of the 20-person wooden farm table in my grandmother's Cape Cod kitchen and dough for French bread kneaded in piles of silky flour on its surface - family history coming out of her mouth and hands simultaneously. the warm brightness of the oven and the anticipation of watching the loaves emerge cracked and crusty and golden in time to be eaten with soft salted butter and hot soup for dinner.

signature dish?

improvisation. always. (the exception: this Cooks Illustrated recipe for The Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie)

five artists to listen to in the kitchen?

frank sinatra. otis redding. nina simone. etta james. ray charles.

neighborhood restaurant?

Castelrosso cheese and roasted carrots and proscuitto on thick slices of sourdough. spicy sausage and sage in brown butter with homemade cavatelli. big glasses of Italian red wine. Frankie's 457. of course.

flavor/texture?

best in pairs. fresh cucumber topped with spicy wasabi. creamy goat cheese with a spoonful of fig jam. chewy dates dipped in grains of sea salt.

picnic spot?

friends and family around a fire on the beach. old sheets and blankets spread on the sand for sitting. surfcasting as the light fades with fingers crossed for a big bluefish tugging the end of the line. roasted marshmallows and chilled white wine and a walk home over cold sand washed in moonlight.

solo meal?

standing on my left foot with the right propped on the inside of my left knee - devouring Vogue editorials and whole-grain pretzels dipped in almond butter.

birthday cake?

summer birthdays get layers of crumbly meringue and sweet whipped cream and fresh strawberries. winter birthdays call out for layers of dark chocolate glaze over dense cake with crunchy candied oranges glistening on top.

fall dish to most look forward to?

the confluence of crispness and warmth in both foods and season. apples and leaves; pumpkins and stews. coming home.

notes

* the web address for georgia's addictive blog, ten thousand things: http://www.ten-thousand-things.blogspot.com ... you can also follow her on twitter. 

* frankie's 457 is located at 457 court street, brooklyn, 11231 (photo courtesy of menu_pages)

ten bites: ryan schrock

(ryan @ diner in brooklyn with oliver brown)

this is the first of what i hope will become a weekly post in which i pose ten food-related questions to one of my friends, partners in crime, or culinary crushes (eric ripert, i've got my eyes on you). i thought i'd kick it off with a bang and interview my dear pal, ryan schrock. he cooks a mean roasted chicken, aspires to make watermelon beer, and celebrates a good meal by hula hooping in the buff. a general warning: this post includes discussion on bowel movements, figs, genitals, and juicy mangoes to the epidermis. enjoy, or turn back now, but you'd be missing out. a special thanks to ryan for being the guinea pig for this experiment and returning with such vivid answers.

1. guilty pleasure?

i used to steal a milk maid caramel every time i went to the supermarket. the first time, my mom told the cashier that i had had one caramel, and she said that was okay and didn't charge us for it. since then i've taken her word as carte blanche for me to eat one caramel every time i go to grocery store for the rest of my life.

2. cookbook?

the supper of the lamb by robert farrar capon. the moby dick of cookbooks.

3. comfort food?

i'm big on textures when it comes to comfort food. i think i am constantly searching for some unattainable, lost childhood experience with my comfort food eating. the texture of a bag of lays potato chips inserted into a foot long turkey or tuna sub does it. also, eating those peanut butter cheese crackers from 7-11 while drinking red gatorade, letting the gatorade soak into the crackers in my mouth. what else? supermarket rotesserie chickens, potato salad on white bread...childhood foods.

4. sexiest fruit?

either mangoes or figs. mangoes because they're so juicy and definitely the the fruit i'd want to smear all over my lover's body. figs because, cut in half, they look like delicious vaginas.

5. food memory?

coming home from elementary school as a latch-key kid and flipping on disney afternoon. i would make a big bowl of orville redenbacher instant popcorn and then pack it in fruit roll ups and make them into little balls that i could eat like an apple. this is what my adult body is composed of at its core. so unhealthy. one time i ate so many blueberry gushers that my poop turned green. i was so scared that i told my mom and then she made me show her. i had to not flush and call my mom in after i went to the bathroom. this is a negative food memory.

6. dish to perfect?

pancakes. in my opinion, it's difficult to make a pancake good enough to justify, beyond a doubt, making a sweet as opposed to savory breakfast. my perfect pancakes would probably involve some portion of sourdough starter, buttermilk, and buckwheat flour.

7. ice cream flavor?

hands down, molasses oatmeal cookie from "the ultimate" in asheville, north carolina. i also generally like alcohol themed ice creams (cherries jubilee, rum raisin, guiness) and butter/cream centric flavors (butter brickle, pralines and cream, dulce de leche).

8. restaurant?

diner in brooklyn. high quality, seasonal ingredients, on-site butchery, pastured animals (that they utilize every part of) and, beyond all this, no dish is without inspiration, without being gratuitously ornate or showy. diner is for real.

9. strangest thing you've ever eaten?

i don't know what it was. i speak some japanese, and so i became friendly with my local sushi chef. he would make me something off the menu every time i went. once he served me these little sour tasting, hard-yet-chewy nibs in a cold viscous sauce. they were okay. after i ate them, he told me they were the fish's seminal vesicles. i don't know if he was joking.

10. song about food?

"blue corn pancakes" by mike west and myshkin. a man loves a woman who doesn't love him back. she offers him blue corn pancakes and maple syrup to help him get over her.

ryan attempting to smoke salami. he reports, for the record, it doesn't work.