groove food

shrooms with a view

if you want mushrooms that look like this:

find them in a place that looks like this:

lay them to rest somewhere peaceful:

but not until they've been loved by a midas touch master:

beautiful things belong together where it's warm. in other words, cook them:

and keep them in good company:

the recipe that follows is from my dearest friend dot, aka lauren/lolo orman, who whipped up this impeccable brunch like she was pulling on a worn-in pair of jeans. i am fairly certain charlie parker had her carmel, california home in mind as the ultimate venue for listening to "my old flame." you're likely to turn up moonstones there, or pups named pickle, or find a chorus of tulips bowing into the afternoon. even the chanterelle mushrooms of big sur and environs request to spend their final days there, becoming the richest shade of brown their surface can tolerate. oh dear. i am talking in fable again. dot-style saturday brunches can have this effect. her simple recipe follows, almost entirely unaltered. i only wish i could give it to you in her handwriting--the toothfairy has dot on retainer for writing her notes. 

crustless quiche with chanterelle mushrooms and herb salad

For 2

2 eggs
1/4 cup cream, half & half, milk or other milk-like substance 
2 tbsp grated grana padano, pecorino or other tasty cheese of that family
1 tbsp finely chopped herb of your choice (I like flat leaf parsley or chives here)
Salt and fresh cracked pepper

Oven at 325.

Whisk eggs with other ingredients until light and fluffy.  Divide between two buttered ramekins and bake until the eggs have risen like a soufflé and just cooked through, 25 to 30 minutes.

Eat with dressed baby greens or:

Chanterelle Mushrooms with Herb Salad

For 2

4 large chanterelles, cut into even bits
1 clove of garlic, minced
Olive oil
Salt
Pepper (fresh cracked, lots)
Lemon
5 large basil leaves
Generous wad of flat leaf parsley and chives
CHEESE! Something soft and creamy like a Brie, or if you're an over achiever, brillat savarin or saint Andre. 

Sauté chanterelle mushrooms in a large pan with olive oil. When the mushrooms are nearly done (toasty gold and smelling like heaven) add an extra pour of olive oil and the garlic, stirring until cooked through and well incorporated. Salt and pepper to taste.

Gather herbs together and chiffonade. Toss in a bowl with a big squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper. 

Place small wedges of cheese on each plate.  Divide mushrooms between plates, placing them on or next to the cheese.  Top with the mixed herbs and drizzle with olive oil. 

homemade horchata

take a sip of this and try not to smile. what is so happiness-inducing about horchata? this agua fresca both comforts without being warm or dotted with marshmallows, and refreshes without bubbles or citrus. the anomaly is compounded when you try to put your finger on its flavors. there is cinnamon and vanilla, yes, but there is something else. it tastes like steamy, warm summer sunshine that goes down the gullet cold.  i didn't realize this other flavor was rice until i started investigating horchata recipes, convinced it might taste just as good in a tall glass on my patio as it does in a styrofoam cup at rico's taco shop. i found a winner. this simple drink can be made for any time, but is especially good alongside spicy foods. cool, milky, nuanced with cinnamon, it is the best answer to salsa picante since cerveza.

homemade horchata

(6 servings)

5 cups water

1 1/2 cups uncooked long grain rice

2 cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup whole milk or rice milk

1/3  - 1/2 cup sugar or honey, according to your taste for sweetness

place the rice, cinnamon sticks, and 2 cups of water in a blender. start on low speed and begin to break up the rice and cinnamon. increase the speed until the contents are well macerated. pour in the remaining water, milk, vanilla, and sugar or honey and blend briefly to combine. pour the entire contents in a pitcher and place in the fridge to steep overnight.

when ready to serve, pour the horchata through a fine sieve to remove the rice and cinnamon. taste and correct according to your preference, with more sugar, ground cinnamon or vanilla. serve chilled, over ice.

notes

* make sure to give your horchata a stir before serving as a lot of the cinnamon and starch settles at the bottom

* if you have access to mexican cinnamon and vanilla, this is the place to use them

* i have not yet tried this in popsicle form but it sounds promising

a salad formula

as many of us awake like zombies from halloween sugar comas, i thought i'd turn your mind as quickly as possible to something other than those lingering reeses peanut butter cups in the plastic jack-o-lantern by the door. i thought i would give you something fresh and lively that gives reason to dish the good & plenty a good ole "talk to the hand." i thought i would inspire you with a simple formula for making intriguing salads, then provide you the recipe for one that rescued me from eating chocolate pudding covered in oreos and gummy worms last night.

if you are leery of experimenting in the kitchen, start with salad. there is a relatively small margin of error, so long as you nail a few basic things: use the freshest ingredients you have available, learn to taste your dressings for balance, don't overdress a salad, and sprinkle a little sea salt before serving--it transforms everything. once you have the essentials covered, play. i like simple salads, but i also can't resist one with multiple flavors and textures. while i'd like to say creating such salads is an artform, i believe it comes down to a simple formula. i am no mathematician, so bear with me as i show how this formula works with a classic caesar salad:

1 - 2 parts creamy (egg yolk, parmesan)

1 - 2 parts crunchy (croutons)

1 - 2 parts sweet (romaine)

1 - 2 parts tart, tangy, or spicy (dijon mustard)

1 - 2 parts bitter or acidic (lemon juice)

i think i have this formula encoded in my subconscious. i'll develop a salad while strolling the aisles of the farmers market, only to assemble it later and discover all the flavor and texture bases are covered. i wanted something colorful for a halloween spread, and loaded with the bounty of fall. here is how it played out:

1 - 2 parts creamy (ricotta salata, avocado)

1 - 2 parts crunchy (roasted pistachios)

1 - 2 parts sweet (persimmon)

1 - 2 parts tart, tangy, or spicy (pomegranate)

1 - 2 parts bitter or acidic (orange juice, vinegar)

here is the resulting salad, perched atop my grandfather's copy of hemingway's a moveable feast, a book laden with colors, textures, mystery, flavor, and life:

avocado, persimmon, and pomegranate salad

serves 6

1 tablespoon finely minced shallot

1 tablespoon pomegranate vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses (or honey)

1 teaspoon orange zest

2 tablespoons orange juice

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 - 8 ounces mixed salad greens

1 avocado, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2 inch slivers

1 cup pomegranate arils

2 persimmons, sliced into 1/4 inch half moons

3/4 cup roasted, salted, shelled pistachios

1/2 cup torn mint leaves

4 ounces ricotta salata, shaved with a vegetable peeler

sea salt + black pepper

place the shallot in a medium bowl and cover with the pomegranate molasses, vinegar, orange juice, and orange zest. leave it on the counter for 15 minutes to macerate. slowly drizzle in the olive oil, while whisking. taste for balance, adjust the oil and vinegar if needed, and season with salt and pepper.

pull out your favorite salad bowl. fill it with the greens, then layers of avocado, persimmon, pomegranate, pistachios, and mint leaves. shave half of the ricotta salata over the top. dress the salad with half of the dressing, then toss to combine. add the remaining ricotta salata. use more dressing if necessary. sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. serve immediately.

notes

* if you don't want to go to the trouble of making such a multi-ingredient salad dressing, a simple lemon juice and good quality olive oil would suffice beautifully for this salad.

* pomegranate molasses is a syrupy reduction of pomegranate juice that is a staple of middle eastern cooking. it is available at most specialty or gourmet groceries, or you can try making your own with alton brown's recipe.

we hope you had a wonderful halloween. sugar hangovers be damned. happy turkey month.

warm winter vegetable salad

sun on a sunday. a combination that calls for communion with earth. a long walk reveals gift after gift sprung up from the soil. the sculpted succulents of southern california stand motionless, loving the light, in full expression of their durable truth. returning to the kitchen to assemble a warm salad, my thoughts turn to what beauty lies beneath us. root vegetables--those sweet, hearty jewels--are the centerpiece of this richly colored and textured salad.  as the days get half eaten by darkness, share this with friends, and be reminded of the hidden blessings worth digging for.

warm winter vegetable salad

(serves 4)

1 sweet potato, peeled and choped into wedges 1 1/2 - 2 inches in length

2 medium-sized carrots, peeled and chopped into 1 1/2 - 2 inch wedges

2 parsnips, peeled, cut into quarters vertically, tough core removed, and chopped into 1 1/2 - 2 inch wedges

1 celery root (also called celeraic), peeled and chopped into 1 1/2 inch wedges

2 beets, peeled and chopped into quarters or eighths, depending on their size

3 tablespoons + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

kosher salt & pepper

1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon dijon or whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

1 cup flat leaf parsely leaves

preheat oven to 425 with racks placed in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. spread the sweet potato, carrots, parsnips, celery root, and beets on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to fit all of them. drizzle the 3 tablespoons of olive oil over the vegetables and sprinkle with salt and pepper. use your hands to toss them all together so they get an even coat of olive oil. roast for 30 minutes on the upper oven rack. during the last five minutes, place the walnuts on another baking sheet and pop them in the oven.

while the vegetables roast, prepare the dressing. combine the balsamic, mustard, and lemon juice in a small mixing bowl. drizzle in the 2 tablespoons of olive oil while whisking.

as soon as the vegetables and walnuts are done, remove them from the oven and scrape them into a large mixing bowl with the parsely. pour the dressing over and toss to coat. place a serving on individual plates and top each with a crumble of feta. season with a little salt and pepper. serve immediately.

notes

* this salad was slightly adapted from sophie dahl's in her book, miss dahl's volutuous delights

* i garnished each plate with a little parsely-hazelnut pesto, a very simple condiment that keeps well in the fridge for a few weeks. place 1 cup of roasted hazelnuts (skins removed as best as possible) and 2 cups of flat leaf parsely leaves in a food processor. season with a little salt and pepper. pulse several times until the leaves and nuts are broken down and resemble a coarse meal. with the processor running, drizzle in 3/4 cup (or more, depending on your desired consistency) extra virgin olive oil. i keep it in a squeeze bottle to drizzle over salads, sandwiches, eggs, and toast.

* you may subsitute squash for any of the root vegetables. it would also be delicious.

gallo & gloves

let me start this off with a horror story. during a restaurant apprenticeship i spent many an afternoon cleaning box upon box of half-sedated softshell crabs. it is a memory that causes me to flinch every time i see them listed on a menu. while i've done away with softies, i welcomed one important thing to my kitchen after my time spent in the restaurant: gloves. this was a lesson learned after a night in which i peeled a quarter hotel pan of chipotles with my bare hands. about half way through my hands began to feel as though i was dipping them deep within the pulse of vesuvius. after a sympathetic dishwasher instructed me to drown my forearms in a bucket of buttermilk (to no avail), i was sent home, completely useless, for a night that could only be described as heartbreak of the hands. i've since kept a trusty box of gloves near me at all times when i cook. without further ado, here are two recipes for salsa. gloves not required, but highly recommended.

pico de gallo

a classic! here is the best recipe and method i've tried, based on the salsa served at street stands in baja california. adapted from deborah m. schneider.

(makes about 2.5 cups)

5 large ripe tomatoes, preferably roma

8 cilantro sprigs, stemmed

1 small to medium white onion

2 fresh serrano chiles

juice of 1 or 2 limes, or mexican limon

sea salt

on a large cutting board, core the tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise, and thinly slice. push them to one side of the cutting board. roughly chop the cilantro and push it up next to the tomatoes. dice the onion as small as you can manage, and push it alongside the cilantro and tomatoes. mince the serranos (seed them if you don't like your salsa too hot).

pull the onions back on top of the chiles. chop by holding the tip of your knife down with one hand and pivoting the blade back and forth. sweep the pile back into the center from time to time. do this until the onions are even more finely diced.

scoop up the tomatoes and cilantro and put them on top of the onions. continue chopping back and forth, until all the ingredients are finely chopped and blended together. when everything is rose-colored and juicy, scoop everything into a bowl and season with salt and lime juice. let the salsa sit for at least 30 minutes before serving.

tomatillo salsa with poblanos & pumpkin seeds

because tomatoes are not always delicious in all parts of the world this time of the year, here is the best fall salsa recipe i've found. smoky, slightly crunchy, and subtly spicy on the finish. i spooned it over butternut squash enchiladas.

fine cooking - poblano-pepita salsa

 

a fall salad

for every season, a salad. this one, brimming with all manner of things crunchy and fresh, is my choice for fall. i discovered it while flipping through urban italian, trying desperately to talk myself out of beelining for citrus tiramisu. andrew carmellini calls it "fall insalata"--a man who agrees with my theory on seasons and salads and does so in italian! i scanned over the ingredients: tart apples (yum), plump raisins (yum), fennel (yum), salty slivers of parmesan (yum), toasty marcona almonds and breadcrumbs (yum), torn basil (yum). i concluded YUM and got to work. a great salad requires attention. carefully select your ingredients, treat them kindly, and go easy on the dressing (you can always add more later but rescuing an overdressed salad is as easy as unsalting your stock). your diligence will be repaid in the form of a salad that barely makes it to the plate. i ate half of it straight out of a battered stainless steel mixing bowl and it fully exceeded my expectations of yum. buon appetito.

apple & fennel salad with greens, marcona almonds & parmesan

(serves 6 as a starter)

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 lemon, finely zested and juiced

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 cup panko breadcrumbs (or fresh breadcrumbs)

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

8 ounces arugula

8 ounces watercress

10 basil leaves, torn

1 sweet-tart apple, such as honeycrisp or fuji, cored and sliced into thin slivers

1 fennel bulb, cored and sliced into thin slivers

1 celery stalk, sliced into thin slivers

1/2 cup marcona almonds, roasted and salted

1/2 cup shaved parmesan cheese (use a vegetable peeler)

sea salt & cracked black pepper

soak the raisins in 1 cup boiling water for 20-30 minutes to reconstitute. drain and dry on paper towels.

make the salad dressing: whisk together the lemon zest and lemon juice in a medium bowl. slowly drizzle in 1/4 cup olive oil while whisking, to emulsify.

make the breadcrumbs: heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. add the breadcrumbs and thyme and toast until golden, 5-10 minutes. remove to a plate to cool.

combine the arugula, watercress, torn basil, raisins, apples, fennel, celery, and marcona almonds in a large salad bowl. drizzle a bit of the dressing over the salad and toss gently to combine. add more dressing if needed to lightly coat the contents. add salt and pepper to taste. plate individual salads and top each with slivers of parmesan and a sprinkle of breadcrumbs.

notes

* this recipe was barely adapted from andrew carmellini's recipe in his book urban italian

* you will have leftover breadcrumbs--they will keep for 2 weeks in the fridge or even longer in the freezer

* if you cannot find marcona almonds, walnuts, pecans, or pine nuts work well

vegan mushroom soup

my first impulse upon meeting a mushroom is to drown it in a river of cream, fino sherry, and butter. i got to thinking that this was not the friendliest approach on my part, tucking them away before i even got to know them, using them merely as an excuse to consume excessive quantities of spanish booze and dairy fat. given proper attention, mushrooms are very lovely in their own right. this soup is my ode to them. but for a bit of herbs, onion, and garlic, the rest of it is entirely mushroom--earthy and warm with the mysterious ability to open up with each spoonful. it was hard to resist adding a five second pour of cream at the end, but i was surprised to find the texture already quite creamy and full. the taste followed suit. dearest funghi--what a pleasure it has been to meet you. let's do this again.

vegan mushroom soup

(serves 6 - 8)

2 ounces dried mushrooms (porcini or morels work well)

2 springs rosemary

2 springs sage

1/2 cup olive oil

1 yellow onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound white button mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced

1 pound shiitake mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced

2 quarts mushroom broth or stock (i use pacific brand)

almond milk, crushed walnuts, thyme for garnish (optional)

place the dried mushrooms in a medium bowl. bring 1 1/2 cups water to a boil and pour it over the mushrooms. let the mushrooms sit for 20 - 30 minutes, until reconstituted. strain the muhrooms through a paper towel lined strainer or a coffee filter to remove any grit, reserving the mushroom soaking water. coarsely chop the reconstituted mushrooms.

pour the olive oil in a large pot or dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat. when the oil shimmers, add the rosemary and sage, pressing against the pot to release their flavor into the oil. cook for 1 - 2 minutes. add the onion and cook until softened, 7-10 minutes, then add the garlic and cook a minute more. add the shiitake mushrooms and button mushrooms to the pot and cook until the mushrooms release their liquid and shrink in size, about 7-10 minutes. add the reconstituted mushrooms, reserved water, and mushroom broth. bring to a boil and then reduce to simmer. allow to simmer for 30 minutes.

remove the rosemary and sage sprigs from the soup. using a blender, puree the soup in batches. you may want to reserve 1 - 2 cups of unpureed mushrooms to add to the soup for texture. re-warm the soup, if needed, over low heat. serve hot, garnished with a drizzle of almond milk, walnuts, and thyme leaves.

 

improv chilaquiles

my first summer as a teenager my father drove my brothers and me many, many hours down the baja peninsula. we finally set up camp in a remote spot called punta baja. i spent most of the days buried in anne of green gables or paddling out in the pacific, laying supine on my surfboard once i made it past the waves, staring into infinite, empty sky. when my dad took us off-roading by a neighboring fishing village, one of the wheels of our isuzu trooper caved in upon hitting a jagged rock. we were stranded, miles from a telephone, in desolate, dusty heat. a couple of fishermen jogged over to examine the mess. they returned with parts from an abandoned washing machine and somehow managed to fix our car enough for us to make it back to san diego. i've since had an unceasing admiration for this aspect of mexican culture--the inspired use made of everything. this ingenuity is especially present in mexican cuisine, where all parts of an animal are used and no food item is put to waste. 

which brings me to chilaquiles. in my opinion, there is no better breakfast to be had on the planet. they are essentially fashioned from leftovers--tortillas, salsa, and abandoned vegetables, tied together with creamy eggs and perhaps a handful of cheese. the corn tortillas get a quick fry in a little oil, then are slipped in warm, spicy sauce, until they are half tender, half crisp, and absolutely delicious. there is no wrong way to make chilaquiles, so i offer here a rough recipe with lots of choices. the one essential, i feel, is a squeeze of lime juice at the end. what day is not made better by the taste of limes upon waking? i can say from experience, not many.

improv chilaquiles

(serves 4)

essentials

6 corn tortillas, cut in quarters

1/2 cup vegetable oil

4 eggs, lightly whisked

2 limes

pre-prepared sauce (choose 2 cups from the following OR create your own sauce with the recipe that follows)

salsa roja

salsa verde

pico de gallo

OR

create your own sauce (choose 3 cups from the following, selecting at least one type of tomatoes)

white, red, or yellow onion, medium diced

fresh tomatoes or tomatillos, coarsely chopped

canned, diced tomatoes

fresh or jarred roasted bell pepper, medium diced

roasted poblano, medium diced

jalapeno, finely diced

flavor builders (select 1 - 4 from the following)

1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon hot sauce (depending on heat)

2 teaspoons adobo from canned chipotles

1 teaspoon dried mexican oregano

1 cup shredded cheese (i.e. monterey jack, cotiga, cheddar etc.)

toppings (optional)

1 cup avocado, large diced, or guacamole

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

salt & freshly ground pepper

fry the tortillas: place the vegetable oil in a saute pan with high sides and set over medium heat. you want the oil extremely hot (about 350 degrees), but not smoking. slice off a small piece of tortilla and slip it in the oil. it should bubble up and begin to turn golden brown. fry the tortilla wedges, three or four at a time, in the oil, until they are golden brown and crisp. remove to a plate lined with paper towels. let the oil cool down for a bit and then pour out all but one tablespoon, reserving the extra oil for another use.

prepare the sauce: if you are using a leftover sauce such as salsa roja or pico de gallo, pour the sauce in the pan, returning the heat to medium. simmer the sauce until hot throughout. move onto to preparing the eggs.

if you are making your own sauce, return the pan to medium heat. if you are using any onions, add them to the pan and cook for a few minutes. next, add any tomatoes or other vegetables you are using and cook for several minutes, until the tomatoes break down and liquid is released. season with salt and pepper.

prepare the eggs: heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the butter. when it sizzles, add the eggs, and slowly stir a couple of times with a spatula to scramble. cook for a minute or two, until the eggs are mostly done.

finish the chilaquiles: add the fried tortillas and eggs to the warm sauce and fold everything together gently with a spatula. stir in any flavor boosters and squeeze juice from halved limes over the chilaquiles. divide amongst serving plates and add any toppings. serve immediately.

notes

* you can add leftover pulled pork, chicken or steak to your chilaquiles if you wish. they are also good with leftover corn, grilled vegetables...whatever you have on hand.

* if you don't feel like frying corn tortillas, you can always use leftover corn chips. leftover is the key word here.

* instead of scrambling the eggs, you can serve the chilaquiles with a fried or poached egg for variety. i've also had chilaquiles made with a hint of ginger. another plate was topped with asagio cheese. both were delicious. 

peppadew & marcona almond relish

i can spend days preparing for a party, rolling meatballs the size of fat walnuts, eking stock out of a summer's worth of frozen lobster shells, peeling bell pepper for the silkiest ratatouille. when all is said and done, the dish that once inspired a guest to lick the bottom of the bowl (okay, he may have had a slightly unreasonable amount of maker's on the rocks, but still) is the one that took five minutes to put together. peppadew and marcona almond relish crowning a generous sliver of aged manchego cheese is culinary crack. peppadews are slightly sweet, slightly spicy pickled peppers with origins in south africa. it's worth the trouble of finding a good jar of them; "peppadew" is an excellent brand, and available at most cheese shops, specialty stores, and online. if there is any relish leftover (unlikely) drizzle it over blanched vegetables, spoon it over soup, or you can always lick it from the bottom of the bowl.

peppadew & marcona almond relish

(makes about 1 cup of relish)

1/2 cup jarred peppadew peppers, red or gold, finely diced (i like the hot variety, but there is also mild)

1/4 cup marcona almonds, salted & roasted, crushed or chopped

1/2 teaspoon garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh mint, sliced into a thin chiffonade

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil of good quality

sea salt & cracked pepper to taste

a good sized wedge of aged manchego cheese, brought to room temperature before serving

crackers or baguette for serving

combine the peppadews, marcona almonds, garlic, mint, and olive oil in a small bowl. stir to combine. season to taste with salt and pepper. serve with the manchego and crackers.

notes

* if you would like to prepare this relish ahead of time and refrigerate it you may do so, leaving out the almonds until just before serving. i think it is best at room temperature because it allows the flavors to open up

* like many great recipes, this one developed when i accidently bought the wrong ingredient. the orginal recipe called for piquillo peppers. i've since tried it with piquillos and like my messed up version best

quinoa salad with maple roasted butternut squash

i'm in the camp that eating something good for you should also be a pleasure. i also favor dishes appealing to all eaters--vegetarians, vegans, and those abstaining from gluten included. this quinoa salad fits the bill deliciously. the idea was born after receiving a sweet note from my friend, laina. she claimed i came to mind while she was eating quinoa and maybe it was because she thought of me as a rich, exotic source of omegas. it may be the best compliment i've ever received, though one i felt obligated to earn. quinoa has an earthy, nutty flavor and a barely detectable crunch. butternut squash, with its voluptuous figure and flavor to match, is the ultimate partner. fall staples come in to tie them together--maple, coriander, thyme, toasty walnuts, cranberries, and sherry vinegar. its served at room temperature, so its ideal for sharing...with anyone and everyone.

quinoa salad with maple roasted butternut squash & walnuts

(serves 10 as a side dish)

4 - 5 cups butternut squash (from an 8-10 pound squash), peeled and chopped in 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1/4 + 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

2 cups quinoa (red or white), rinsed until the water is clear

1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 cup dried cranberries (or pomegranate arils, if available)

1/4 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest

3 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (or substitute white wine vinegar)

kosher salt & pepper

preheat oven to 400 with a rack set in the middle of the oven. combine the maple syrup, thyme leaves, 1 teaspoon of ground coriander and 1/4 cup of olive oil in a medium mixing bowl. whisk the ingredients to combine. place the butternut squash in a large roasting pan and drizzle the maple syrup mixture over it. toss together with your hands so that the squash gets evenly coated. season with 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper. roast for 40-45 minutes, stirring at 15 minute intervals, until the squash is tender but holds its shape. cool in the pan set on a rack.

place 4 cups of water in a medium saucepan (that has a fitted lid) with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. bring to a boil. add the quinoa, return to a boil, and then lower the heat to medium-low. cover, and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the water has been absorbed. fluff with a fork and immediately spread the quinoa out on a baking sheet to cool to room temperature.

combine the orange zest, orange juice, sherry vinegar, and 1 teaspoon of ground coriander in a medium bowl. slowly drizzle in 1/3 cup olive oil while whisking. season with salt and pepper.

when the quinoa and butternut squash have cooled toss them together in a large bowl with the walnuts, cranberries, parsley, and orange juice dressing. make sure to scrape in any liquid that may be leftover in the butternut squash pan--it is delicious. season the salad with salt and pepper. serve at room temperature.

notes

* you can make this salad several hours (or even a day) ahead and store in the refrigerator. just wait until serving to add the walnuts and cranberries (or pomegranate), and make sure it comes to room temperature before you serve it. 

* on a somewhat unrelated note, i once watched laina's childhood jack russel, odie, swallow a gopher whole. it still ranks as one of the most memorable things i have ever witnessed. odie may be the only creature who might scoff at this salad. gophers, man.